917.47 
Sm  6j 


JOURNAL  IN  AMERICA 


1837-1838 


4¥ 


BY 

JOSHUA  TOULMIN  SMITH 


1 


1'IBRAR.Y 

OF   THE 

UNIVEH5  ITY 

or    1LLI  NOIS 

917.41 


IU1NW5  W^R^AL  SURVEY 


T3 


THE  j®HM   €5^BRAi^ 
ilLIBIRAlRX©  CHICAGO. 


Tiiwdlyj 


^  dfSy ' ^pp^*L^ 


c^mj^a^L-F^^ 


Withdrawn  from  Orerar  Library 


.■  ■*■>■ 


JOURNAL  IN  AMERICA 
1837-1838 


Heariman's  Historial  Series  Number  41 


JOURNAL  IN  AMERICA 

1837-1838 


by 

Joshua  Toulmin  Smith 


Edited  with  Introduction  and  Notes 

by 

Floyd  Benjamin  Streeter 

Archivist,  Michigan  Historical  Commission 


Niucty-ntuc  copies  primed  lor 

CHARLES  F.    HEARTMAN.  in  Metuchen.  New  Jeney 

Nineteen  Hundred  in.1  Twenty-five 


ALsO, 


Number of  ninety-nine   copies 

printed. 


Withdrawn  from  Crerar  Library 


PREFACE 

The  greater  part  of  the  information  which 
should  be  put  before  the  reader  is  included  in  the 
historical  introduction.  It  remains  here  to  call 
attention  to  the  editorial  principles  which  have 
been  used  in  the  preparation  of  the  manuscript 
for  the  press.  As  far  as  possible  the  original 
manuscript  has  been  produced  verbatim.  Where 
it  has  been  necessary  to  supply  words  or  add 
letters  in  words  in  order  to  make  the  meaning 
clear  the  portion  supplied  is  printed  in  brackets. 
A  few  slight  errors  have  not  been  reproduced. 
The  capitalization  and  punctuation  In  the  original 
manuscript  has  been  followed. 

I  am  under  obligations  to  the  Burton  Historical 
Collection  of  the  Detroit  Public  Library  for  the 
loan  of  the  manuscript.  I  owe  much  to  Dr.  George 
N.  Fuller,  Secretary  of  the  Michigan  Historical 
Commission,  for  valuable  help  and  suggestions. 

Floyd  B.  Streeter. 
Lansing,  Michigan, 

May  18,  1925. 


97y,  n 


518589 


Historical  Introduction 

Among  the  English  writers  who  visited  this 
section  of  the  country  in  the  early  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century  and  wrote  accounts  of  their 
travels  was  Joshua  Toulmin  Smith,  whose  Journal 
was  procured  by  Mr.  Clarence  M.  Burton  in  Lon- 
don, England,  some  years  ago.  This  Journal  was 
kept  by  Smith  and  his  wife  during  their  journey 
from  New  York  to  Detroit  in  1837  and  their  re- 
turn as  far  as  Utica  in  1838. 

Joshua  Toulmin  Smith  was  born  at  Birming- 
ham, May  29,  1816,  and  was  the  eldest  son  of 
William  Hawkes  Smith,  an  economic  and  educa- 
tional reformer.  A  zealous  student  of  literature 
and  philosophy,  young  Smith  first  prepared  for  the 
Unitarian  ministry  but  abandoned  that  vocation 
in  favor  of  law  and  at  sixteen  he  was  articled  to 
a  local  solicitor.  Removing  in  1835  to  London 
he  was  entered  at  Lincoln's  Inn  with  a  view  to  the 
bar. 

Meanwhile  he  was  active  with  his  pen.  At  the 
age  of  seventeen  he  wrote  an  "Introduction  to  the 
Latin  Language,"  for  the  class  at  the  Birming- 
ham Mechanics'  Institute  and  in  1836  produced  a 
work  on  "Philosophy  among  the  Ancients." 

In  1837  he  married  Martha,  daughter  of 
William  Jones  Kendall  of  Wakefield  and  came  to 
the  United  States.  Influenced  by  Harriet  Martin- 
eau's  favorable  account  of  the  West  they  decided 
to  locate  in  Michigan.  The  removal  from  an  en- 
vironment of  culture  and  refinement  where  they 
enjoyed  the  conveniences  of  civilization  to  the 


frontier  with  its  primitive  mode  of  life  was  a 
great  change.  They  found  conditions  far  different 
from  what  they  had  expected.  They  were  highly 
disappointed.  Their  disappointment  is  recorded 
in  the  Journal. 

This  section  of  the  country  was  being  conquered 
from  the  wilderness  at  this  time.  The  chief 
modes  of  travel  were  by  the  slow-moving  train, 
the  steam  boat  and  the  stage  coach.  The  wagon 
roads  were  almost  impassable.  The  jolting  which 
this  cultured  Englishman  and  his  wife  were  sub- 
jected to  in  the  stage  were  among  the  many  un- 
pleasant experiences  on  the  frontier.  Detroit  was 
a  small  place  and  had  no  street  lights  or  pave- 
ments. The  cart  wheels  sank  into  the  mud  up  to 
the  axle  and  cows  are  said  to  have  roamed  about 
the  city.  At  this  time  Michigan  was  beginning  to 
feel  the  effect  of  the  Panic  of  1837.  The  State 
being  newly  settled  and  a  number  of  elaborate 
projects  having  been  undertaken  the  people  suf- 
fered greatly  from  the  economic  crisis.  Entries 
in  the  Journal  reflect  the  financial  situation. 

The  Canadians  were  revolting  against  the 
British  government.  Being  a  loyal  British  sub- 
ject Smith  strongly  disapproved  of  the  rebellion 
and  the  part  American  sympathizers  took  in  it. 

While  in  Michigan  Smith  lectured  on  phren- 
ology in  Detroit  and  Ann  Arbor.  He  applied  for 
the  position  of  Professor  of  Mental  Philosophy  in 
the  University  of  Michigan.  Because  of  the  bad 
financial  situation  and  the  fact  that  the  University 
building  had  not  been  commenced,  the  Board  of 
Regents  decided  not  to  make  an  appointment. 

Smith  and  his  wife  came  to  Michigan  with  favor- 
able impressions.  However  the  frontier  condi- 
tions, the  bad  financial  situation,  the  American 

8 


sympathy  for  the  Canadian  revolt,  the  lack  of 
refinement  and  hospitality  according  to  their 
standards  and  other  discouraging  factors  caused 
a  change  of  feeling  and  they  left  the  State  dis- 
gusted. 

They  returned  to  Utica  where  the  Journal  ends. 
Smith  delivered  a  series  of  lectures  fn  that  city 
and  later  went  to  Boston  where  he  lectured  on 
phrenology  and  philosophy. 

In  1839  he  published  "The  Discovery  of  America 
by  the  Northmen  in  the  Tenth  Century,"  and 
wrote  several  minor  publications.  In  1842  he  re- 
turned to  England,  settled  at  Highgate  near  Lon- 
don, resumed  his  legal  studies  and  was  called  to 
the  bar  in  1849. 

Beginning  his  literary  career  early  in  life  Smith 
was  a  very  active  writer  and  produced,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  works  mentioned,  a  number  of  volumes 
on  legal,  historical  and  scientific  subjects.  A 
full  account  of  his  works  is  to  be  found  in  the 
Dictionary  of  National  Biography. 

He  declined  an  invitation  to  stand  as  candidate 
for  Parliament  for  Sheffield  in  1852.  In  1854, 
with  others,  he  formed  the  Anti-Centralization 
Union  and  wrote  the  thirteen  papers  issued  dur- 
ing its  existence.  Three  years  later  he  estab- 
lished the  "Parliamentary  Remembrancer,"  a 
weekly  record  of  action  in  Parliament  with  his- 
torical commentaries  and  illustrations.  The  work 
on  this  and  his  practice  at  the  parliamentary  bar 
broke  down  his  health.  He  was  drowned  while 
bathing  at  Lancing,  Sussex,  April  28,  1869. 

This  Journal  up  to  our  arrival  at  Detroit  was 
written  on  loose  sheets  and  copied  into  this  book 
Jany  1st  1838. 

Left1  England  [via]  "South  America"  Barstow 


JThe    first   part   of   the  Journal   is   in   Mrs.   Smith's   hand- 
writing. 

9 


Capt.  16  Agt  1837.  Arrived  at  N.  York  after  a 
favourable  passage  of  30  days  at  ^  10  A  M  15 
Sept  1837.  First  impressions  of  the  city  more 
favourable  than  anticipated.  Surprised  at  ap- 
pearance of  hotels.  Shown  into  a  large  &  hand- 
some appartment  in  American  Hotel  a  portion  of 
which  was  divided  off  for  a  bed-room  but  in  such 
a  manner  as  not  to  offend  the  eye:  the  partition 
only  extended  half  way  up  the  wall  &  thus  leaving 
plenty  of  room  for  circulation  of  air.  Attend- 
ance during  whole  time  excellent  &  attentive. 
Particularly  struck  by  civility  (not  servility)  of 
all  attendants  in  Hotel  &  elsewhere.  Amazed  at 
quality  &  variety  of  dishes  brought  to  table  at  all 
meals.  Would  much  have  preferred  a  single  plain 
joint  &  simpler  bread. — New  York  a  fine  city. — 
City  Hall  handsome  building  but  bad  taste  to 
have  foundation  red  granite  &  rest  white  marble 
— has  an  imposing  effect. — Noticed  particularly 
"Lafayette  Terrace."  Broadway  greatly  exagger- 
ated in  general  description.  Great  drawback  to 
the  health  &  comfort  of  N.  York  is  its  distance 
from  &  want  of  country  walks — Much  stuck  by 
appearance  of  women,  waists  like  wasps.  All  de- 
formed &  unhealthy  looking.  All  gent[leme]n  to 
whom  introduced  remarkably  kind  attentive  & 
obliging.  Much  pleased  by  kind  &  friendly  feel- 
ing.   Delighted  with  Dr.  Follen— 

Left  N.  York  Tuesday  26  Sept  [via]  Steamboat 
for  Albany.  Steamboat  ill  constructed  &  ill  ar- 
ranged. Not  allow  man  &  wife  to  walk  down 
stairs  together.  How  absurd!  Must  arise  from 
young  state  of  society  &  false  notions  of  courtesey 
— exceedingly  unpleasant  &  must  give  way  to 
more  generous  feelings  as  society  progresses.  N. 

10 


B.  Americans  possess  singular  courtesey  to  Ladies 
—exemplified  in  that  M.  wanted  a  [biscuit?]  to- 
day (not  feeling  well  enough  to  go  down  to  din- 
ner) &  when  I  asked  Captain  to  let  me  have  some 
for  her  (I  offering  to  pay)  he  refused  unless  she 
would  come  down  to  dine  tho  I  told  him  she  could 
not ! !  Courtesey  this ! !  The  scenery  of  the  Hud- 
son fine  during  the  first  30  or  40  miles  particularly 
about  West  Point  but  in  general  nothing  particu- 
lar. Wants  the  bright  gleams  of  sunshine  &  then 
it  would  be  something.  Were  much  amused  at 
the  names  given  to  places — Athens  for  instance 
is  a  poor  hamlet  of  about  100  wood  cottages. 

Reached  Albany  at  7  o'clock.  Congress  Hall 
pleasant  Hotel  nice  rooms — great  civility — 
Charges  not  so  high  as  at  N.  York  where  we  paid 
88  dollars  for  10  days  stay. 

Arrived  at  Utica  27th  by  Railroad  from  Albany 
distance  about  100  miles.  6  hours  &  y2  on  Journey 
— that  is  15  miles  an  hour  while  the  Liverpool 
&  Birmingham  performs  the  same  distance  in  4*/2 
hours.  Railroad  laid  on  wood — very  shaky — 
dreadfully  noisy  &  very  unpleasant  on  account  of 
sparks  from  engine — this  arises  from  the  fuel 
being  wood  instead  of  coal  &  must  be  remedied 
with  all  its  inconveniences — The  railway  is  pre- 
ferable to  common  stage.  The  country  of  the 
Mohawk  Valley  is  very  beautiful.  We  had  a  rainy 
day  so  that  we  could  only  see  it  under  great  dis- 
advantages. Still  its  beauty  was  evident — Utica 
is  a  pretty  city — Many  streets  very  pretty  having 
trees  on  each  side  &  being  broad  &  nicely  paved 
— sad  rainy  weather  while  there  &  saw  the  first 
walking  [House?] 

29th  From  Utica  to  Auburn  by  stage  our  first 
travel  in  this  vehicle.  Very  different  from  an 
English  stage.  The  carriage  holds  6  (professedly) 

11 


but  they  take  any  number  2  back  &  front  &  2  on  a 
seat  slung  in  the  middle.  This  is  not  nearly  so 
commodious  &  convenient  as  a  French  Diligence 
Roads  horrid  75  miles  distance  &  12  hours  on 
road — The  roads  are  left  when  once  made  to 
nature  alone  &  are  consequently  dreadful  espe- 
cially in  wet  weather  such  as  we  had.  While  at 
Auburn  visited  the  state  prison  there  &  were  very 
much  pleased  by  the  arrangements.  There  are 
complete  departments  of  almost  every  trade  &  the 
opperations  of  each  are  carried  on  to  the  fullest 
&  most  perfect  extent.  There  were  in  the  prison 
about  600  prisoners  &  it  was  about  to  be  enlarged 
to  twice  its  present  size :  the  whole  establishment 
covers  5  acres  of  ground.  We  saw  the  prisoners 
going  to  dinner — 'Twas  a  most  curious  sight  they 
walked  one  behind  another  in  companies.  One 
bad  arrangement  is  conspicuous,  they  are  made 
to  return  to  work  immediately  after  meals.  This 
must  have  a  very  bad  effect  upon  digestive  func- 
tions &  of  course  tend  to  injure  the  health.  The 
system  of  silence  I  think  is  bad.  It  can  have  little 
practical  good  &  must  do  an  immensity  of  harm 
It  seems  to  me  that  it  must  often  terminate  in  in- 
sanity for  the  thoughts  forbidden  utterance  will 
turn  morbidly  upon  themselves  &  the  result  must 
be  obvious.  Upon  the  whole  that  spirit  of  warm 
benevolence  does  not  breath  through  the  establish- 
ment which  flows  through  every  part  of  the 
asylum  of  Hanwell.  Tell  me  not  these  are  crimi- 
nals, the  others  lunatics.  Each  is  confined  on 
account  of  some  erroneous  training  of  the  mental 
faculties  which  require  to  be  corrected  &  each 
should  be  treated  as  a  moral  patient  with  kindness 
&  not  suspicion,  &  yet  alas!  suspicion  with  its 
hateful  blast  taints  every  Avenue  of  the  Auburn 
establishment.     Look  at  the   innumerable  peep 

12 


holes  for  confirmation  of  this  assertion  and  there 
is  no  tone  of  benevolence  in  any  of  its  superin- 
tendents but  rather  of  force  and  scorn.  All  the 
prisoners  without  exception  look  sallow  &  wan. 

We  determined  to  shake  off  the  gloom  of  the 
morning  which  was  very  wet  by  a  walk  in  spite 
of  the  rain  which  cleared  up,  &  after  trying  to 
make  a  dinner  of  sundry  good  things  spoiled,  viz 
potatoes  underdone  &  chicken  imtrussed  and 
swimming  in  butter  merely  melted,  devouring  18 
peaches  we  set  off  and  found  the  village  rather 
pretty — houses  prettiest  most  simple  &  comfort- 
able of  any  we  have  hitherto  seen. — The  sky  hav- 
ing cleared  off  we  had  the  benefit  of  a  bright  sun 
light  &  remarked  that  the  neighbouring  scenery 
was  very  sweet — The  Autumnal  tints  are  much 
more  brilliant  than  in  England,  some  of  the  reds 
are  quite  carmine  &  the  yellows  very  bright — Had 
our  journey  from  Utica  been  made  in  sunshine 
we  must  then  have  forgotten  in  the  beauties  of 
the  landscape  the  dreadful  jolting  which  was  be- 
yond description — as  we  progress  westward  we 
perceive  strong  symptoms  of  our  approaches  to 
barbarism.  At  Utica  we  were  barely  attended  to 
&  here  our  Host's  son  was  kind  enough  voluntarily 
to  come  and  pick  his  teeth,  supported  by  the 
mantle  piece,  while  he  was  answering  our  ques- 
tions as  to  roads  &c,  in  a  disagreeably  independ- 
ent manner.  Toulmin  acquitted  himself  during 
the  parlance  with  great  self  government  &  credit 
to  himself,  while  I,  poor  foolish  I,  felt  ready  to 
burst.  We  do  not  at  all  wonder  at  what  is  said 
respecting  manners  &c — Whoever  visits  America 
must  carefully  avoid  Tea  &  Coffee — Every  one 
asks  in  the  stage  whence  you  come  &  whither 
going. 

Oct  1.    This  was  a  fine  morning  so  at  5  o'clock 

13 


we  put  ourselves  into  a  stage  for  Rochester  (The 
motion  of  these  stages  is  horrific.  Tis  like  the 
violent  pitching  of  a  vessel  when  there  is  a  strong 
wind  a  head,  &  the  Coachee  sits  aloft  mindful  of 
his  horses  &  apparently  tmmindful  of  the  vehicle 
at  his  heels,  for  bang  he  goes,  over  rutt,  puddle, 
or  stone  each  as  nothing  in  his  sight.)  We  were 
much  pleased  with  the  small  lakes  Cana[n]da[i]- 
gua  &  Geneva.  The  town  of  Geneva  is  beautifully 
situated,  &  the  distant  views  of  it  reminded  us 
much  of  English  scenery — Arrived  at  Rochester 
late  in  the  evening  and  went  to  bed.  The  house 
was  full  and  the  chambermaid  who  attended  on 
us  was  so  well  mannered  &  handsomely  dressed 
that  when  I  first  addressed  her  I  thought  it  was  a 
daughter  of  the  Host — A  white  muslin  gown 
with  very  smart  black  silk  apron  and  neatly 
dressed  hair — 

Oct  2d — Were  much  interested  in  this  place, 
as  it  were  new  born  of  the  woods :  only  25  years 
ago  nothing  of  the  present  town  which  numbers 
20,000  souls  existed !  all  was  forest ! !  The  Houses 
are  brick  &  good[;]  the  Hotel  of  the  U.  States 
very  good.  We  took  a  railroad  hence  to  Batavia, 
the  road  lay  through  much  forest  &  land  under- 
going the  process  of  clearing — both  of  us  strongly 
felt  the  sublime  while  reflecting  on  the  past,  pres- 
ent &  future,  as  we  passed  through  these  leafy 
depths  &  entered  deeply  into  the  feelings  which 
penned  "there  is  a  pleasure  in  the  pathless  woods." 
Remarked  that  the  only  characteristic  of  these 
masses  of  trees  which  came  up  to  our  ideas  of 
forest  scenery  was,  their  great  extent.  No  majes- 
tic timbers  such  as  we  see  in  English  &  which  we 
feel  have  defied  the  blasts  of  many  winters — All 
are  tall  &  thin,  the  consequences  of  their  density 
— Remarked  that  the  poor  wood  cutters  whom 

14 


we  passed  on  our  route  looked  somewhat  like  what 
Frankenstein  must  have  done,  when  his  monster 
first  arose:  they  stared  with  visible  emotion  at 
the  monster  (our  train)  they  had  made.  This 
was  the  first  unlucky  day  we  have  yet  had — Lost 
our  Carpet  Bag  containing  all  our  body  linen — 
Toulmin  thought  he  was  going  to  die.  Frightful 
shower  of  rain  which  wet  me  through — Dined  at 
Lockport  &  then  went  to  examine  the  curious 
locks  which  gives  name  to  the  place — there  are 
two  sets  of  5  successive  locks. 

In  the  year  1812  the  spot  whereon  now  stands 
the  city  of  Rochester,  a  city  containing  a  popula- 
tion of  20,000  individu[a]ls  was  the  centre  of  a 
vast  forest  which  the  foot  of  civilized  man  had 
never  traversed — Behold  now  the  difference — this 
is  indeed  "progress  westward" — The  recent  origin 
of  the  place  is  conspicuous  on  all  sides  in  the  con- 
dition of  the  land — Everywhere  the  half  burnt 
stumps  of  the  trees  not  the  plain  or  the  drear 
forest  itself  over  spreads  the  whole  surface  of  the 
soil.  It  is  curious  &  to  a  reflecting  mind  must  give 
origin  to  a  long  train  of  ideas — to  consider  when 
passing  along  the  way  in  the  railway  carriages, 
that  here  we  are  thus  in  active  employment  of 
that  which  may  be  considered  as  the  very  highest 
exponent  of  what  is  called  civilization — i  e  loco- 
motive steam  carriages — in  the  very  midst  & 
surrounded  close  on  all  sides  (for  the  forest  comes 
close  to  the  edge  of  the  line  for  several  miles)  by 
the  mighty  boundless  forest,  planted  by  the  hand 
of  nature  only  and  which  the  foot  of  man  has 
never  traversed — Here  is  the  most  striking  anti- 
thesis of  Art  &  Nature  which  can  perhaps  be  wit- 
nessed— We  noticed  as  we  passed  a  new  method 
here  employed  of  destroying  the  trees  in  order  to 
clear  the  land,  formerly  we  had  observed  they 

15 


were  burnt  up — here  we  saw  whole  districts 
covered  with  trees  but  all  dead,  for  acres  in  extent 
&  we  saw  that  every  dead  tree  had  a  ring  cut 
near  the  root  through  the  bark — the  method  is 
certainly  effectual  and  it  had  a  most  curious  effect, 
thus  to  see  forests  of  dead  trees — We  arrived  at 
Batavia  about  11  &  then  immediately  [went]  to 
Lockport  where  we  remained  all  night — Next 
morning  we  proceeded  to  Niagara  by  stage,  under- 
standing the  route  taken  by  this  vehicle  was  more 
interesting  than  the  Railway — the  country  was 
very  fine — we  saw  today  the  most  extended  mass 
of  forest  we  had  yet  seen — From  a  high  point  of 
the  mountain  ridge  we  looked  down  towards  Lake 
Ontario  &  then  we  saw  as  it  were  an  ocean  of 
living  leaf.  It  extended  far  as  the  horizon  before 
us  &  on  either  side  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
&  an  elevated  position  gave  us  a  greater  command 
of  the  distance  than  ordinary — It  was  very  fine 
sublime.  There  was  more  diversity  in  the  forest 
scenery  this  day  than  usual  &  as  we  penetrated 
its  depths  in  the  stage,  we  were  more  struck  than 
ever,  with  its  sublime  effect.  We  passed  through 
an  Indian  Village  of  the  tribe  of  Tuscaroras — saw 
many  of  the  inhabitants  and  observed  their  huts 
covered  with  bark  roofs — differing  thus  much 
from  those  of  the  whites.  Saw  Brock's  monument 
&  had  a  fine  &  distant  view  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara 
— Ah!  this  distant  glimpse  was  sublime  in  the 
extreme  &  gave  a  just  foretaste  of  what  a  nearer 
view  would  disclose.  We  approached  Niagara  & 
hastened  as  speedily  as  possible  to  the  side  of  the 
Aver.  Shall  the  description  be  attempted  or  shall 
we  rather  say  with  Fanny  Butler  "Oh  God  what 
a  sight!" 

Long  shall  memory  cling  to  the  recollection  of 
our  1st  day  spent  at  the  Niagara  Falls  Oct  4th 

16 


1837 — A  glorious  day — bright  sun — frosty  crisp 
air — &  scenery  sublime !  Oh !  life  has  indeed  been 
worth  the  having,  fresh  youthful  life  a  blessing,  a 
happiness  for  which  we  both  felt  grateful  to  the 
originator  of  so  much  beauty.  It  struck  me  today 
that  a  visit  to  this  place,  on  such  a  day  as  this 
would  be  an  effectual  cure  for  all  those  unhealthy 
souls  whose  minds  cramped  by  bigotry  or  ignor- 
ance, cause  them  to  look  upon  Nature,  &  her 
works,  as  a  prey  to  sin  &  under  its  ban.    Oh !  let 

over 
such  people  but  once  stand  upon  these  precipices, 
contemplate  the  grandeur  of  these  falling  waters, 
follow  the  curling  foam  &  spray  glistening  in  the 
sunbeams,  drink  in  the  beauty  of  the  contrasting 
Autumnal  tints — and  they  must  indeed  be  callous 
if  they  do  not  open  within  them  a  well  spring  of 
feeling — happiness. 

Ah !  sweet  Goat  Island !  And  ye  tembling  waters 
which  wash  its  sides,  wash  on,  on,  on  for  years 
yet  so  that  thousands  yet  may  know  your  charms, 
&  feel  through  thy  means  the  visible  beauty  of  a 
bounteous  God — On  this  day  we  took  with  us  some 
little  of  the  substantial  aliment  which  nature's 
necessities  require  and  satisfied  our  hunger  while 
sitting  on  the  rocky  summits  of  the  Falls  and 
snatched  from  the  roaring  torrents  just  rushing 
down  to  add  fresh  diamonds  to  the  cataract  be- 
neath, some  pure  sweet  classic  drops  to  slake  our 
thirst.  We  made  this  day,  each  3  sketches  of  the 
Falls  from  3  difft  points  of  view.  A  man  passing 
expressed  a  wish  to  have  one  of  T's — &  offered 
him  money  but,  I  saying  he  only  drew  for  pleasure 
presented  him  with  one  of  his  sketches  for  which 
he  received  a  beautiful  rosy  cheeked  apple  &  a 
friendly  shake  of  the  hand! 

The    following    morning — the    weather   being 

17 


very  unfavourable  for  remaining  longer  at  N.  we 
departed  at  y2  past  one  by  Railway  for  Buffalo 
where  we  arrived  at  y2  past  3  &  duly  took  up  our 
quarters  at  the  Eagle — 

Augst  6th  Walked  about  Buffalo  in  order  to 
discover  the  various  beauties  of  the  place — Upon 
the  whole  pleased  with  it.  This  too  is  another 
wonderful  place.  In  1818  it  contained  one  house, 
now  contains  [we]  were  told,  20,000  inhabitants. 
Saw  many  good  houses  as  good  as  first  rate  houses 
in  England,  both  as  to  size  &  stile  but2  we  after- 
•  wards  learned  that  their  construction  &  internal 
arrangements  are  very  inferior — all  here  is  for 
show. 

On  7th  took  our  places  by  steamer  ship  "Colum- 
bus" for  Detroit:  during  voyage  coasted  along 
shore  all  the  way — rather  different  to  what  we 
had  been  told  in  New  York  viz.  that  there  were 
no  ports  along  the  Lake — Lake  Erie  a  fine  lake — 
the  two  days  of  our  voyage  very  fine — Reached 
Detroit  about  4  o'clock  on  Monday  morning  the 
9th.  Here  then  at  length  we  are  in  the  "Far  West" 
as  it  called— 750  miles  W.  of  N.  York.  4,000  off 
dear  Old  England.  Having  passed  in  our  way 
through  Albany,  Manheim,  Utica,  Sullivan,  Man- 
lius,  Syracuse,  Jordan,  Marcellus,  Auburn,  Seneca, 
Waterloo,  Geneva,  Cana[n]daigua,  Lima,  Cale- 
donia, Palmyra,  Rochester,  Batavia,  Byron  & 
near  Athens,  Troy,  Amsterdam,  Rome,  Lenox, 
Lyons,  Moscow,  Pembrock,  Clarence  &  Homer!! 
Strange  medley  of  names — 

In  the  course  of  our  travels  we  have  observed 
that  the  people  here  always  use  nautical  terms  in 
traveling — They  describe  a  situation  by  the  com- 
pass "talk  of  the  voyage"  of  being  "all  aboard" 
&c  this  doubtless  arises  from  all  their  ancestors 


*The  remainder  of  this  entry  is  in  Smith's  handwriting. 

18 


having  come  hither  over  ocean  &  having  in  the 
voyage  acquired  nautical  language.  We  observed 
many  constant  expressions — always  commencing 
answering  a  question  with  the  word  "Well" — al- 
ways if  not  catching  your  meaning  say  "how" 
instead  of  the  English  "aye"  &c  &c.  The  spitting 
is  abominable — the  mode  of  living  at  Hotels  very 
uncomfortable — the  public  tables  much  against  our 
taste — cooking  horrid.  Everything  is  saturated 
with  butter — To  the  public  mode  of  living  we  how- 
ever doubtless  owe  it  that  we  met  with  such  good 
Hotels  as  we  everywhere  did.  They  talk  of  the 
"Far  West"  yet  the  accommodation  is  universally 
much  better  than  we  should  meet  with  in  many 
country  towns  in  England. 

Detroit — Our  first  impressions  of  this  place 
were  favourable.  Our  first  day  was  beautifully 
bright  &  clear  and  we  walked  the  round  with 
much  unction  and  real  pleasure,  after  escaping 
the  horrors  of  a  high  pressure  Steam  Engine, 
than  which  conveyance  we  could  obtain  no  other 
to  sail  up  Lake  Erie.  /  felt  much  surprise  when 
I  was  shown  the  Governer's  house,  a  building 
good  enough  but  much  inferior  to  several  others 
in  the  same  street,  and  equally  so  when  told  that 
tho'  possessing  more  real  power  than  the  King 
of  England  his  income  was  not  more  than  2,000 
dollars  per  ann — So  much  for  feeling  bred  up  in 
the  Old  country — This  man  by  name  Mason3  un- 
fortunately for  us  just  now  at  N.  York  so  that 
for  the  present  Doctor  Follen's  letter  must  repose 
quietly  in  Toulmin's  pocket — We  are  at  the  Ameri- 
can Hotel  a  good  house  but  where  we  find  fewer 
comforts  (at  least  in  accordance  with  our  English 
notion)  than  any  place  we  have  hitherto  visited — 


"This  was   Stevens   T.   Mason,   first  Governor  of  the   State 
of  Michigan. 

19 


Saturday  night  Oct  14th  A  memorable  night — 
The  first  of  our  drinking  tea  in  our  own  private 
abode,  followed  by  the  divertisement  of  scanning 
&  adding  up  sundry  bills  for  necessary  furniture 
&c  paid  during  the  course  of  the  day — a  snug  little 
parlor  &  bed  room  with  a  good  handsome  dark 
closet  &  magnificent  lumber  room  form  our  abode 
for  which  we  are  to  pay  7  dollars  per  month  rent 
14  additional  dollars  for  attendance!! 

O !  how  we  did  enjoy  this  evening  our  tea,  for 
we  could  take  our  own  time,  talk  over  sundry 
matters  &  not  feel  obliged  to  scald  our  throats 
least  we  should  be  the  last  at  table — it  is  just  two 
months  since  we  sat  at  our  own  family  fire  side — 
I  once  thought  I  should  never  live  to  be  tired  of 
roaming  but  four  months  constant  changing  has 
begun  to  work  a  change  in  my  feelings  on  that 
point — 

Marketing  in  a  strange  town  &  country  is  by 
no  means  an  enviable  employment — Some  people 
we  found  very  civil  &  one  amused  us  much  by 
telling  Toulmin  when  he  went  to  enquire  why 
certain  articles  which  had  been  ordered  had  not 
been  sent,  "that  he'd  have  nothing  to  do  with 
him."  We  are  going  to  sleep  under  a  comforter 
until  our  Blankets  make  their  appearance,  which 
are  at  present  at  N.  York  &  as  feather  pillows 
are  too  dear  for  our  purse  at  present  a  deer-hair 
bolster  is  to  supply  their  place  until  we  have  eaten 
enough  fowls  to  fill  our  pillows — I  must  not  omit 
one  grand  proof  of  the  splendeur  of  our  apart- 
ments— In  the  two  sash  windows  there  are  only 
48  panes  of  glass!! 

Saturday  night  Oct  21st  Only  half  a  dollar 
wanting  in  the  balance  of  accounts  relating  to 
the  expenditure  of  $475!!  And  this  me  thinks 
the  first  weeks  settlement  of  our  house  keeping 

20 


&c  &c — is  very  satisfactory  and  highly  creditable 
to  two  such  spend  thrifts  as  myself  and  my  hus- 
band ! 

Another  item  in  our  account  book,  &  which  is 
equally  satisfactory  is,  that  from  the  different 
situations  &  conditions  of  the  countries  we  have 
traversed  in  our  progress  westward  the  stock  in 
hand  with  which  we  left  Old  England  has  actually 
increased  25  per  cent  or  a  quarter  of  the  original 
sum!!!!  this  profit  added  to  the  sum  of  interest- 
ing information  and  pleasure  we  have  enjoyed 
during  the  last  four  months,  makes  a  total  gain 
of  which  few  people  would  be  ashamed  and  which 
we  think  is  well  worth  going  through  the  matri- 
monial ceremony  to  obtain — 

Here  it  comes!  "Hurra  Hurra"  and  one  runs 
to  the  window  with  true  English  expectations,  to 
feast  our  eyes  upon  a  crowd,  numberless  &  noisy 
with  flags  &  banners  waving  in  the  air;  all  we 
have  for  our  pains  is,  first,  a  long  waggon  some 
20  feet  from  prow  to  stern  drawn  by  4  clumsily 
harnessed  horses,  and  all  bespattered  with  mud; 
in  this  are  seated  a  dozen  drummers  &  trumpeters, 
who  with  infinite  skill  so  contrive  to  agitate  the 
airy  medium  that  it  is  quite  impossible  to  dis- 
tinguish any  sequence  of  tones,  at  all  in  accord- 
ance with  any  known  melody.  Then  follows  a 
political  emblem  the  execution  of  which  is  well 
worthy  the  rude  attempts  of  an  infant  state,  a 
huge  canoe  or  badly  shapen  boat  mounted  upon 
wheels,  whereof  the  sailors  perform  their  char- 
acters by  diving  and  rowing  the  surrounding  at- 
mosphere with  wooden  oars:  this  is  succeeded  by 
a  stage  whereof  the  horses  are  adorned  with 
trumpery  flags  about  a  foot  square,  and  the  sides 
&  seats  with  fine  concretions  of  Mother  earth — 
at  the  tail  of  this  succeeds  another  vehicle  equally 

21 


ingenious,  for  the  accommodation  of  Tory  voters 
whose  zeal  is  either  asleep  or  questionable.  These 
with  two  other  common  carts  drawn  by  ghostes 
of  horses  &  their  owners  in  their  everyday  brown 
coat,  followed  &  surrounded  by  about  30  or  40 
ragmuffin  looing  men  &  boys  all  of  which  look 
as  tho'  they  had  escaped  from  some  prison,  formed 
the  procession  which  supported  Governor  Mason 
in  the  election  of  Oct.  1837.  O  I  forget  two  bril- 
liant marshals  whose  prancing  horsed  [s]  did  their 
best  to  appear  grand  in  a  drapery  of  blue  &  gold — 

Novr  6th  &  7th  were  the  days  of  election  of  Gov- 
[erno]r  deputy  &  members  of  senate  &  assembly 
of  the  State  of  Michigan.  This  was  a  set  contest  be- 
tween the  two  parties  Whigs  &  Democrats — Most 
despicable  exhibition  each  party  made  in  proces- 
sion— very  little  excitement  but  I  am  most  aston- 
ished &  disgusted  at  the  abominable  mode  in 
which  the  elections  are  conducted.  The  parties 
avow  openly  that  they  have  had  recourse  to  any 
&  every  means  to  carry  the  election.  I  have  been 
told  by  one  party  that  they  themselves  have  sent  70 
Irishmen  to  one  spot  by  ship  with  order  to  perjure 
themselves  &  vote  for  their  party,  &  if  when  they 
got  to  their  destination  they  refused  they  were 
not  to  be  landed.  After  waiting  there  they  were 
to  be  shipped  to  some  other  point  &  to  vote  there 
— By  the  same  party  I  was  told  that  when  the 
Marshal  had  been  sent  by  Mason  to  canvass  for 
him  they  sent  some  ahead  of  him  to  tell  the  people 
he  was  come  to  assist  them — The  tricks  &c  are 
truly  iniquitous.  Coventry  in  her  worst  days 
was  vergin  purity  in  comparison.  This  is  vote  by 
ballot— Hurra  for  liberty  &  vote  by  Ballot ! ! ! ! 

8  Jany  384  Much  worthy  of  record  has  passed 
before  our  observation  since  last  date  of  Journal. 


'Smith's  handwriting  begins  here. 
22 


1   '  '  > 


Circumstances  have  prevented  its  entry. 

We  have  noted  often  the  truth  of  the  remarks 
so  often  made  that  go  where  you  will  hear  of 
nothing  but  dollars  &  Business.  We  heard  on  the 
first  Sunday  after  arrival  these  words  from  the 
mouth  of  a  preacher  in  the  course  of  his  prayer 
"Those  of  you  who  have  come  up  here  to  transact 
your  business  with  the  Almighty  &c"!!  The  ex- 
traordinary number  of  slang  phrases  has  at- 
tracted much  attention  as  well  as  the  extraordi- 
nary pronunciation  of  many  common  words  & 
misuse  of  many  other  words — all  these  are  noted 
together  at  the  end  of  the  volume. 

We  have  now  to  note  here  the  remarkable  sway 
which  party  spirit  &  the  mere  love  of  office  has 
here.  There  has  been  rebellion  for  some  weeks 
in  Canada  against  the  British  Government.  The 
name  of  Liberty  has  been  sounded  most  absurdly 
in  a  cause  instigated  merely  by  a  few  demagogues 
for  it  is  admitted  on  all  hands  by  those  acquainted 
with  the  matter  that  the  Canadians  are  better  off 
than  they  could  possibly  be  under  self  government 
or  "independ[en]t  existence  as  separate  state." 
The  word  Liberty  excites  prejudice  in  the  minds 
of  all  these  [super?]  Americans  &  they  would 
rush  to  join  the  contest  heedless  of  all  conse- 
quences &  heedless  how  far  they  commit  their 
government  bet  [wee]  n  wh[ich]  &  G[reat] 
B[ritain]  treaties  of  peace  now  subsist.  Several 
hundred  men  have  been  armed  &  drilled  here  & 
this  with  the  actual  knowledge  of  the  executives 
&  all  in  authority.  Even  arms  have  been  stolen 
from  the  arsenals  to  the  number  of  600  stands 
with't  any  precautions  being  taken  even,  as  it  is 
credibly  assured  me,  with  the  determined  non 
opposition  of  the  Sheriff,  U.  S.  Marshal  &  Gov- 
[erno]r.    Why  is  this?  It  is  thus.    The  present 

23 


Gov[ernors]  are  democrats.  All  the  French  here 
(&  they  are  numerous)  are  of  that  party.  All 
these  have  sympathies  with  Canada  &  the  execu- 
tive &  others  are  afraid  that  if  they  did  their  duty 
&  opposed  movements  here  they  would  lose  the 
French  vote  at  the  next  election.  Here  is  a 
despicable  motive  in  this  glorious  "republic"  in- 
fluencing men  to  let  self  interest  &  love  of  office 
predominate  over  all  claim  of  country  or  duty. 

I  actually  heard  a  man  the  other  day  say  that 
he  was  proud  to  be  carried  away  by  feelings  in 
favour  of  Canadians — that  is  (viz  interpreto)  he 
was  proud  that  his  reasoning  faculties  had  as 
little  power  as  that  the  name  alone  of  Liberty 
should  be  sufficient  to  urge  his  conduct  without 
any  regard  to  the  justice  of  the  application  of  the 
term:  &  this  is  the  way  with  all  here — None  of 
them  know  the  state  of  the  case  &  because  Liberty 
is  cried — as  it  has  been  by  every  tyrant  &  dema- 
gogue yet  who  has  had  a  purpose  to  gain — they 
w[oul]d  peril  their  own  honour  &  country  by 
reckless  folly. — 

There  is  little  of  real  liberty  here — nothing  in 
comparison  of  the  true  spirit  of  liberty  which 
prevails  in  England — Liberty  of  opinion  exists 
not  &  without  this  the  name  of  freedom  is  but  a 
mock  word. — What  is  it  that  the  despot  fears  in 
fact  but  opinion  &  what  is  it  that  excites  his  arbi- 
trary tyranny  but  opinion — Here  there  is  no  free- 
dom of  opinion. 

Every  day  only  makes  us  feel  the  more  in  what 
bright  comparison  England  stands  by  the  side  of 
America. 

Today  (Jany  8)  a  body  of  400  men  have  gone 
down  to  Gibralter  to  dislodge  some  rebels  who 
have  taken  quarters  there.  It  was  only  because 
they  could  not  absolutely  avoid  it  that  the  authori- 

24 


ties  at  length  came  forward  to  put  an  appearance 
of  observing  Laws.  They  are  gone — but  they  will 
do  nothing — If  the  rebels  are  there  they  will  give 
them  time  to  go  very  likely  will  give  them  more 
arms  &  provisions — Dastard  villains  are  they  all. 
They  have  endangered  the  peace  &  safety  of  this 
city  &  of  the  U.  S. — None  can  tell  how  it  may 
end  &  whether  this  city  may  not  be  in  ruins  ere 
long. — The  rebels  are  only  15  miles  off  Their 
band  is  composed  entirely  of  the  worthless  &  aban- 
doned who  have  nothing  to  lose  &  all  to  gain  & 
who  think  this  a  good  opportunity — If  they  fail 
in  their  attack  on  Fort  Maiden  (as  they  must 
from  its  well  guarded  state)  they  had  as  soon 
turn  back  &  sack  this  city  as  not — Our  chief 
hope  is  that  they  will  be  all  cut  to  pieces. 

gents 

By  the  bye  forgot  to  mention  that  folks  here 
always  go  about  calling  on  New  Years  day  on  all 
their  friends — They  go  twos  &  twos  or  more  & 
look  most  absurd — It  happened  to  be  a  wet  day 
this  time  &  their  Sunday  best  got  sadly  bespat- 
tered. 

13th  Jany 

Ah  it  is  glorious  how  these  villains — "loafers" 
as  the  American  term  is — have  been  treated  at 
Maiden — Sadly  discomfitted  indeed  is  their  con- 
dition. Wretches  to  assume  the  sacred  name  of 
liberty  as  the  cloak  of  blackest  villainy  &  murder 
that  name  to  commence  by  robbing  the  arsenals 
of  guns  &  to  go  on  to  pirate  steam  boats.  One  of 
the  boats  which  they  stole  was  put  under  the  com- 
mand of  Theller5 — who  lived  next  to  us  in  Larned 


"This  was  Dr.  Edward  Alexander  Theller,  an  Irishman, 
who  was  born  In  Canada  in  1810.  He  came  to  Detroit  in 
1832  and  was  a  wholesale  grocer,  practicing  physician  and 
druggist.  He  was  captured  on  board  the  schooner  Anne  and 
sentenced  to  be  hanged,  but  escaped  to  the  United  States. 
In  1839-40  he  was  editor  of  the  "Spirit  of  '76,"  a  Detroit 
newspaper,  and  later  was  an  editor  in  California  and  super- 
intendent of  schools  in  San  Francisco.  He  published  a  book 
called  "Canada  In  1837-38."     He  died  in  California  in  1859. 

25 


St — This  wretch  left  his  wife  &  a  large  family  to 
go  &  fight  against  his  native  country — His  fate 
has  been  such  as  he  most  richly  deserved.  The 
fool  had  command  of  the  stolen  schooner  (Anne) 
in  which  were  placed  all  the  stolen  guns  &  provi- 
sions. He  sailed  down  opposite  Maiden  &  there 
out  of  wanton  cruelty  fired  into  the  midst  of  the 
women  &  children  on  the  shore. — The  water  was 
low  &  the  wind  drifted  the  vessel  nearer  land  than 
he  intended.  The  British  bravely  sallied  out  & 
waded  in  the  water  up  to  the  side  of  the  boat  & 
seized  it  thus. — The  fight  was  desperate  but  the 
brave  British  secured  the  schooner — Many  of  the 
pirates  were  slaughtered  &  Theller  taken  pris- 
oner &  sent  to  Toronto  where  he  will  be  hanged — 
a  punishment  well  deserved.  The  vessel  had  on 
board  300  stands  of  arms — stolen  from  Detroit 
besides  several  barrels  of  gunpowder  &  provisions 
— A  rich  prize  this  &  bravely  won.  The  pirates 
were  within  pistol  shot — the  whole  body  of  them 
— during  this  action  &  never  offered  to  stir.  They 
were  left  by  this  with  not  more  than  2  rounds 
of  cartridges.  There  soon  was  mutiny  among  the 
pirates  themselves  &  they  turned  off  their  com- 
mander Sutherland — a  fellow  of  most  abandoned 
character  who  has  been  editor  of  three  most  black- 
guard papers  in  New  York  &  thinks  this  a  fine 
opportunity  to  make  something  out  of  the  con- 
fusion &  disturbances  in  Canada.  The  fellow  be- 
ing discarded  came  up  to  Detroit  &  was  here  very 
properly  apprehended  for  contravention  of  the 
laws  of  the  United  States.  But  this  is  a  country 
of  Democracy  &  is  law  to  be  of  any  avail  in  a  free 
country?  Who  w[ou]ld  be  such  a  tyrant  as  to 
affirm  such  a  thing.  No !  the  fellow  has  been  this 
morning  brought  up,  as  a  farce,  before  the  judge 
for  examination  as  to  whether  there  is  sufficient 

26 


cause  for  his  detention  or  giving  bail.  The  proof 
given  was  most  complete.  Not  the  slightest  truth 
was  wanting  &  even  the  wretch  himself  had  the 
opportunity  to  declare  that  as  long  as  he  had  a 
nerve  in  his  arm  he  would  do  as  he  had  done — 
&  yet  the  judge  was  affraid  to  find  him  guilty  & 
discharged  him  in  the  face  of  all  law  &  justice. 

Yes  this  is  America  free  America! — Let 
America  make  herself  free  before  she  talks  of 
assisting  Canada — Here  is  a  judge  afraid  of  ful- 
filling Law.  This  is  all  of  a  piece  with  the  whole 
[solemn?]  farce  which  has  been  played  in  this 
fearful  matter.  It  is  much  to  be  feared  that 
dreadful  consequences  may  follow.  This  conduct 
is  as  much  as  telling  the  pirates  that  they  may  go 
&  plunder  all  the  arsenals  &  stores  &  sack  burn 
&  ruin  &  destroy, — &  none  will  prevent  them. — 
But  what  of  all  that — this  is  the  land  of  liberty! 
Hurra!  Hurra!  Down  with  Law,  Justice,  Inde- 
pendence, &  free  opinion !    Liberty  for  ever ! 

Many  very  many  here,  long  for  a  monarchical 
government  &  in  that  it  must  end — This  state  of 
things  cannot  last. — 

16th  Jany  Yesterday  afternoon  [we]  went 
over  to  Canada  &  saw  &  enquired  a  little  into  the 
matter.  It  appears  that  none  of  the  Canadians 
have  joined  this  rebellion.  The  great  majority 
of  those  who  are  attempting  to  plunder  the 
country  (under  the  mockword  of  "patriots")  are 
Americans.  The  Canadians  to  a  man  are  strenu- 
ous supporters  of  the  British  Governm[en]t.  They 
have  all  rushed  to  the  standard  voluntarily  &  we 
were  informed  that  not  a  man  could  be  compelled 
to  joint  the  rebels — rebels  indeed  they  can  hardly 
be  called  pirates  is  the  very  proper  term.  The 
language  of  the  Canadians  uniformly  is,  "We  see 
rather  too  much  of  Democracy  on  the  other  side 

27 


the  river  to  want  any  of  it  here."  There  are  now 
upwards  of  2,500  men  well  armed  &  drilled  on  the 
other  side,  well  prepared  for  an  attack  &  all  hav- 
ing something  at  stake  all  being  land  owners  or 
sons  of  landowners. — And  here  on  this  side  are 
a  few  of  the  vilest  scum  of  creation — men  having 
nothing  to  lose  &  all  to  gain — these  band  together 
in  pirate  troops  with  the  "loafer"  in  chief  Suther- 
land at  their  head — &  talk  of  invading  the 
country!! — a  complete  invasion  certainly  'twould 
be  for  not  a  man  on  the  other  side  but  detests  & 
scorns  their  vile  hypocritical  "patriot"  cant. — All 
on  the  other  side  wish  that  they  wo[uld]  go — & 
would  that  they  were  there — They  would  soon  be 
cut  to  pieces  &  there  would  be  an  end  to  all  traiter- 
ous  schemes  which  it  is  evident  they  are  deter- 
mined (from  Sutherland's  own  words)  to  keep  up 
as  long  as  profitable.  That  man  was  certainly 
borne  for  the  gallows.  [He  will?]  have  it  yet. — 
Abandoned  wretch  wishing  to  repair  his  ruined 
fortune  by  bringing  a  whole  people  into  trouble 
by  piratical  attempts  at  plunder — careless  what 
responsibility  he  heaps  upon  the  head  of  his 
country. 

Wednesday6  Jany  24th  Last  night  Toulmin 
gave  the  first  of  Ten  Lectures  on  Phrenology  in 
this  City  of  Detroit  and  as  the  information  was 
communicated  gratis  the  room  was  quite  full :  to- 
night however  will  try  their  zeal.  Amongst  the 
numerous  remarks  that  were  made  on  him  after- 
wards was  the  following  truly  national  one,  by 
a  young  Irishman  "0  Mr.  Smith  is  a  nice  man  & 
if  he  gets  into  trouble  I  will  fight  for  him"! — 
Toulmin  commanded  the  attention  of  the  audience 
so  well  that  they  seemed  almost  to  forget  some 
of  their  odious  &  most  disgusting  practices  & 


"Mrs.  Smith's  handwriting1  begins  with  this  entry. 

28 


which  cannot  be  indulged  in  without  making  a 
noise  Well  subscribers  at  first  number  25  but 
afterwards  increased  to  30  regular  ones  with  gen- 
erally about  9  or  10  "droppers  in"  This  is  some 
of  the  first  fruits  of  American  promises  which 
experience  has  now  taught  us  to  estimate  as  not 
worth  a  rusk! — perhaps  I  should  rather  change 
the  term  America  for  Michigan,  we  have  not  seen 
enough  of  the  States  yet  to  give  such  a  sweeping 
condemnation — T's  lectures  I  think  are  highly 
creditable,  They  are  well  digested,  powerful  ex- 
ceedingly interesting  &  abounding  in  facts  which 
arrest  the  attention  of  every  candid  mind. 
Amongst  his  regular  attendants  were  School- 
craft,7 Farnsworth,  Fletcher,  Houghton  &  Pitcher 
all  men  of  education  &  strong  mental  powers. 

Saturday  night  Feby  17th  This  is  the  close  of 
a  somewhat  eventful  day — The  Detroit  Regeants 
have  ere  this  decided  in  a  manner  upon  our  resi- 
dence or  non  residence  in  this  State8  &  the  Prime 
Minister  of  our  Domestic  economy  has  taken  her 
final  departure,  rather  than  return  home  from  a 
Christening  of  one  of  her  friends,  at  the  reason- 
able hour  of  ten  o'clock  The  morning's  sun  rose 
&  smiled  upon  us  brightly  this  morning  &  we  were 
all  in  peace  &  good  will[;]  its  setting  saw  us  all 
equally  obstinate  in  the  persuit  of  our  own  oppos- 
ing determinations — I  record  this  incident  as  the 
beginning  of  our  troubles  with  servants  in  this 
free  &  independent  Land!! 

O  Detroit  what  a  barren  and  inhospitable  City 


'Schoolcraft  says:  "This  gentleman  lectured  acceptably 
.     .     .     "     "Personal  Memoirs,"  p.  594. 

•Smith  applied  for  the  Professorship  of  Mental  Philosophy 
in  the  University  of  Michigan.  At  the  February  meeting  of 
the  Board  of  Regents  of  the  University  the  matter  was  re- 
ferred to  the  Committee  on  the  Number  of  Professors.  At 
the  March  meeting  this  committee  reported  "that  the  pres- 
ent situation  of  the  University  forbids  them  from  recom- 
mending at  this  time  a  selection." 

29 


L.,11.     II  I  ■«&..!  I 


thou  art!  Thou  shalt  sit  enthroned  as  the  Queen 
of  Muddy  Streets,  through  which  do  saunter  thy 
gaunt  lean  cows,  which  after  feeding  upon  what 
thy  generous  inhabitants  cast  from  their  kitchen 
doors  are  killed  and  quartered  to  be  cooked — but 
to  be  eaten — aye  theres  the  rub — that  is  fre- 
quently an  impossibility.  Gristle,  skin  &  bone, 
pervade  the  very  marrow  &  boiled,  baked,  or  fried 
ones  teeth  suffer  in  the  attack.  Nor  are  thy 
people  much  more  inviting  they  call  and  stare, 
profess  and  then  are  seen  no  more  One  family 
alone  has  bid  us  kindly  welcome  to  this  place,  & 
this  we  will  not  forget — Our  peek  into  the  fash- 
ionable world  last  week  at  Mr.  Brush's  was  by 
no  means  enticing  &  we  now  only  grow  more  & 
more  impatient  of  our  sojourn  here — To  settle  in 
this  place  would  in  my  opinion  be  almost  as  far 
from  heaven  as  Lucifer  was  after  his  9  days  fall — 

We  have  this  day  spent  20  dollars  of  Wild  Cat 
money9  taken  at  the  Lectures — spent  it  because 
we  could  not  keep  it  for  next  week  it  may  all  be 
bad — a  pleasant  state  of  things!  however  we 
have  secured  a  very  nice  addition  to  our  Library 
— The  terms  Wild  Cat  &  Red  Dog  are  given  to 
monies  whose  credit  is  going  or  gone.  The  delec- 
table Maid  who  left  us  so  hastily  the  other  night 
is  married — we  were  fortunate  in  being  freed 
from  her  0  Money,  Matrimony  &  Inhospitality 
Ye  &  Detroit  shall  all  go  together ! ! ! 

March  22.  The  Regents  have  fixed  our  doom. 
Their  reply  sent  in  a  most  unformal  way,  was  to 
the  effect  that  in  consequence  of  the  monetary 


9Michigan  suffered  greatly  from  bank  failures  In  the  late 
thirties.  In  1837  there  were  sixteen  chartered  banks  in  the 
State.  In  March  of  that  year  the  "general"  or  "free"  bank- 
ing law  was  passed  under  which  forty-nine  banks,  popularly 
known  as  "wild  Cat  banks"  were  organized,  forty  of  which 
went  into  operation.  By  December  1839  only  three  chartered 
banks  with  one  branch  bank  and  four  of  those  organized 
under  the  general  law  remained  in  operation. 

30 


condition  of  the  State  the  affairs  of  the  University 
were  at  a  stand  and  consequently  no  appoint- 
ments could  be  made  at  present.  Other  candi- 
dates appeared  to  have  received  similar  answers 
— Is  this  failure  good  or  bad  for  us?  time  will 
show — A  settled  home  with  2000$  per  ann.  was 
certainly  some  what  tempting  but  then  we  must 
have  lived  in  this  odious  country  &  among  this 
people  which  are  only  worthy  of  it — Now  we  have 
the  hopes  tho  quite  in  the  perspective  that  some- 
thing more  agreeably  located  will  turn  up.  Our 
plan  now,  is,  to  leave  this  place  as  soon  as  we  can, 
go  direct  to  Utica  &  there  to  make  our  head 
quarters  for  a  few  months  Meantime  Toulmin 
will  lecture  at  the  surrounding  places — &c  &c — 
We  had  an  invitation  to  a  gay  route  (200)  a[t] 
Mrs.  Lamed  but  ill  health  &  il  humour  at  the 
place  prevented  our  going — I  must  say  this  Mrs. 
L.  is  the  most  Lady  like  person  I  have  seen  here — 
Poor  Mrs.  Stewart  has  affronted  Toulmin  by  giv- 
ing up  her  own  Old  Country,  entirely — she  is  a 
clever  woman  (a  Mrs.  Jackson  of  wakef[iel]d) 
but  she  is  too  much  of  a  Saint — Tis  a  pity  here 
the  women  are  occupied  every  evening  with  their 
Bible — prayer — and  sewing  meeting — to  one  of 
the  last  named  I  am  going  for  the  first  time,  to- 
night Toulmin  being  out — at  Ann  Arbor. 

19th10  of  this  March  I  went  to  Ann  Arbor  for 
the  purpose  of  delivering  there  a  course  of  Lec- 
tures on  Phrenology :  induced  thereto  by  the  posi- 
tive assurance  rec  [eive]  d  on  the  previous  Tuesday 
on  a  flying  visit  that  I  sho'd  undoubtedly  have  an 
audience  of  40  or  50.  This  night  I  deliv[ere]d  my 
first  lecture  gratis — of  course  audience  pretty  full 
but  2d  night  brought  but  7  out  of  40  or  50  &  sub- 
sequent nights  but  little  better.    Here  is  another 


"Smith's  handwriting  begins  here. 
31 


instance  of  faith  to  be  placed  in  American  prom- 
ises. The  country  of  Ann  Arbor  is  however  far 
superior  to  this  of  odious  Detroit  It  is  healthy 
wh  [ere]  as  Detroit  is  the  vilest  place  on  creation's 
surface  for  every  inducement  to  disease — with  no 
possibility  of  exercise. 

As  far  as  our  experience  of  American  people 
has  hitherto  gone  this  is  the  result  of  our  observa- 
tion There  prevails  a  universal  deficiency  of  con- 
scientiousness. This  leads  them  to  neglect  sys- 
tematically every  promise  made — which  promises 
are  most  abundant  for  the  large  size  of  appro- 
bat  [iveness  ?] .  It  used  to  be  a  saying  in  many 
European  cities  "by  the  faith  of  an  Englishman" 
to  signify  unquestionable  faith.  Certainly  "the 
faith  of  an  American"  will  become  a  bye-word  for 
zmtrustworthiness  &  faithlessness.  Another  grand 
trait  is  the  deficiency  of  Adhesiveness.  There  is  no 
social  intercourse  in  America.  It  is  a  thing  totally 
unknown.  The  men  herd  together  &  seek  after 
sensual  pleasures — the  women  are  neglected — & 
consequently  seek  refuge  in  herding  likewise  to- 
gether &  in  concoct  [in]  g  cant  &  humbug  into  the 
strangest  compound  of  abominable  sentimental- 
ism  &  affectation  &  nonsense  that  ever  disgraced 
society.  The  women  in  America  are  the  most 
dependent  creatures  in  the  universe.  They  have 
not  in  truth  half  so  much  energy  or  independence 
as  the  women  in  an  Oriental  seraglio  &  not  more 
intellect.  Theirs  is  indeed  existence  &  not  life — 
It  is  sad  &  sicken  [in]  g  to  behold  them. 

But  independence  is  a  thing  unknown  in  the 
U.  S.  No  man  appears  here  to  dare  to  express 
an  honest  &  open  opinion  if  it  differs  in  any  man- 
ner from  that  of  the  multitude.  Oh  England! 
May  never  American  institutions  reach  thy  loved 

32 


&  honoured  shores  if  such  be  the  consequences 
which  follow  in  their  train. 

April  4th11  On  the  other  side  I  have  pasted  in 
a  column  from  the  "Detroit  Daily  Advertiser"  of 
this  day  (Wednesday  Ap.  4,  1838)  as  a  specimen 
of  the  dignified  &  statesmanlike  proceedings  in 
the  Legislative  Hall  of  this  "sovereign,  free  & 
independent  state"  of  Michigan.  This  is  but  a 
fair  sample  of  the  proceedings  of  each  day. 

From  Detroit  Daily  Advertiser  of  Wednesday 
4  April  1838 

BANK  OF  MICHIGAN. 

In  the  House  of  Representatives,  on  Monday, 
Mr.  J.  M.  Howard  moved  the  appointment  of  a 
committee  of  five  to  investigate  the  affairs  of  the 
Bank  of  Michigan  in  pursuance  of  the  petition  of 
the  President  and  Directors  thereof,  and  report 
as  soon  as  practicable.  Mr.  Henry  Smith  moved 
that  the  committee  be  elected  by  ballot.  Lost.  Mr. 
Smith  moved  to  lay  the  motion  on  the  table.  Lost. 
Mr.  Wakefield,  seconded  by  Mr.  Smith,  moved  an 
adjournment.  Lost.  A  call  of  the  House  was 
moved  and  refused.  The  question  recurring  on 
the  resolution,  Mr.  J.  M.  Howard,  in  urging  its 
adoption,  took  occasion  to  read  an  extract  from 
the  Morning  Post  of  that  morning,  reiterating  the 
charge  made  by  Gov.  Mason.  Mr.  Montgomery 
tho't  it  not  in  order  for  the  gentleman  to  read 
from  that  newspaper.  Mr.  Gidley  thought  it 
should  never  be  read  by  any  man.  The  Speaker 
decided  it  was  in  order.  Mr.  Howard  finished 
reading  the  paragraph,  and  asked  if,  under  the 
circumstances,  an  investigation  was  not  an  act 
of  justice  to  the  bank  and  its  bill  holders?    Mr. 


"Mrs.  Smith's  handwriting  begins  here. 
33 


Ball  said  he  could  now  perceive  the  object  of  the 
resolution.  It  was  connected  with  the  city  elec- 
tion. What  had  that  House  to  do  with  charter 
elections?  Further,  it  had  nothing  to  do  with 
Gov.  Mason's  casual  remarks  unless  made  in  his 
official  capacity.  He  thought  the  matter  ought 
not  to  be  considered.  Mr.  Montgomery  read  the 
balance  of  the  editorial  article  of  the  Post,  that 
relating  to  the  politics  of  certain  officers  of  char- 
tered and  wild  cat  banks.  Mr.  Howard  stated  that 
the  assertions  therein  made  were  not  true.  Mr. 
Montgomery  remarked,  that  Gov.  Mason,  when  he 
made  the  statements  relative  to  the  bank  was  talk- 
ing politics  with  Roberts;  that  they  were  not 
proper  subjects  of  investigation.  (At  this  stage, 
members  began  to  leave  the  House.)  Mr.  Buck- 
bee  said  this  was  no  time  for  an  investigation. 
(He  was  proceeding  when  the  speaker  announced 
that  a  quorum  were  not  present.)  A  call  of  the 
House  was  ordered,  when  but  21  members  ans- 
wered to  their  names.  There  not  being  a  quorum, 
the  House  adjourned. 

AFTERNOON  SESSION. 

The  subject  was  again  taken  up.  Mr.  Buckbee 
moved  to  amend  the  resolution  so  that  the  report 
of  the  committee  should  be  published  in  the  state 
paper  as  soon  as  convenient.  Mr.  Cook  moved 
that  the  committee  be  instructed  to  report  within 
three  days.  He  supported  this  motion  at  some 
length.  Mr.  Buckbee  replied  and  stigmatised  the 
attempt  to  get  the  resolution  through  as  an  elec- 
tioneering effort.  Mr.  Buel  followed  on  the  same 
side.  He  said  he  was  in  favor  of  an  investigation, 
but  would  never  consent  to  base  it  on  the  Gov- 
ernor's private  conversation.    Besides,  the    com- 

34 


mittee  could  not  report  in  three  days.    Mr.  Cook 
explained  how  the  petition  came  to  be  sent  in.    A 
handbill  had  the  day  before  been  circulated  by 
the  foes  of  the  bank,  charging  it  with  insolvency. 
This  conversation  of  Gov.  Mason  had  connected 
him,  whether  properly  or  not  he  could  not  say, 
with  the  handbill  charges.     For  that  reason,  the 
affidavit  was  attached  to  the  petition  as  the  basis 
of  legislative  action.     Mr.  Henry  Smith  opposed 
the  amendment.    The  question  being  taken,  it  was 
negatived — yeas  17,  nays  19.  Mr.  Buckbee's  amend- 
ment was  then  negatived — yeas  16,  nays  20.    Mr. 
Buckbee  moved  to  give  the  committee  power  to 
send  for  persons  and  papers,  also  to  examine  wit- 
nesses under  oath.     Mr.  Henry  Smith  moved  a 
substitute  so  far  as  to  require  the  committee  to 
report  to  the  next  Legislature  and  publish  the 
facts,  as  soon  as  ascertained,  in  the  state  paper. 
The  motion  was  supported  by  Messrs.  Smith  and 
Lancaster,  and  opposed  by  Messrs.  J.  M.  Howard 
and  Cook.    The  substitute  was  lost,  yeas  18,  nays 
18.    Mr.  Buckbee's  amendment  was  then  accepted 
by  the  mover  of  the  original  resolution.    Mr.  B. 
then  moved  that  the  committee  publish  the  result 
of  their  investigation  in  the  state  paper  within 
30  days.     Messrs.  Smith  and  Lancaster  opposed 
the  motion.    Mr.  Butler  moved  10  days.  A  motion 
here  made  to  lay  the  resolution  and  amendments 
on  the  table  was  lost,  yeas  18,  nays  19.    Mr.  H. 
Smith  moved  a  call  of  the  House.    Lost.    Mr.  But- 
ler's motion  was  then  negatived,  also  Mr.  Buck- 
bee's.    Mr.  H.  Smith  moved  to  refer  the  whole 
subject  to  the  committee  on  banks  and  incorpora- 
tions.   Mr.  Buckbee  moved  to  amend  by  referring 
it  to  the  committee  on  Indian  affairs.    Mr.  J.  M. 
Howard  moved  to  add — "together  with  the  Execu- 
tive."   All  lost.    Mr.  H.  Smith  moved  to  appoint 

35 


a  committee  of  one.  Not  supported.  The  ques- 
tion recurring  on  the  resolution  as  amended,  Mr. 
Lancaster  opposed  it.  Mr.  Buckbee  moved  a  call 
of  the  House.  Not  supported.  Mr.  Buel  moved 
to  insert  a  clause  making  the  investigation  at  the 
expense  of  the  bank.  Mr.  Buckbee  again  moved  a 
call  of  the  House.  Lost.  Mr.  Bud's  motion  was 
then  negatived,  yeas  11,  nays  25.  Mr.  Buckbee 
moved  to  include  all  other  chartered  banks  which 
had  been  slandered  by  the  Executive.  Mr.  Buel 
moved  a  substitute,  that  the  committee  report  to 
the  house  if  in  season,  otherwise  to  publish  in  the 
state  paper.  Mr.  J.  M.  Howard  moved  to  add — 
"in  pursuance  of  the  prayer  of  the  petitioners." 
Mr.  Cook  moved  the  previous  question.  Mr.  H. 
Smith  protested  against  this  unfair  mode  of  legis- 
lation, and  hoped  the  gentleman  would  withdraw 
his  motion.  Mr.  Cook  replied,  that  the  gentleman 
from  Monroe  (Mr.  Smith)  had  himself  moved  the 
previous  question  several  times  during  the  session, 
and  had  refused  to  withdraw  at  his  request,  and 
was  therefore  the  last  man  that  ought  to  com- 
plain. He  should  not  withdraw  his  motion.  It 
was  the  first  time  he  had  moved  it  during  the 
session.  The  House  refused  to  take  the  previous 
question,  yeas  18,  nays  19.  Mr.  J.  M.  Howard's 
amendment  was  then  carried,  yeas  22,  nays  15. 
Mr.  Buel's  amendment  as  ordered  was  then 
adopted.  The  question  recurring  on  Mr.  Howard's 
resolution  as  amended,  it  was  decided  in  the 
affirmative,  yeas  22,  nays  16.  Mr.  Buel  remarked, 
that  he  voted  for  the  resolution,  not  because  he 
was  in  favor  of  it,  but  with  an  expectation  of 
hereafter  moving  a  reconsideration. 

The  Chair  then  appointed  Messrs.  Cook,  Buel, 
Buckbee,  Butler  and  H.  Smith  as  the  investigat- 
ing committee. 

36 


Below12  is  given  a  specimen  of  Michigan  money 
a  "shin  plaster" — In  the  condition  it  is  here  it  was 
reed  &  such  is  the  general  current  money 

[The  specimen  of  Michigan  money  is  pasted 
in  the  Journal  at  this  point.] 

April  23rd — A  happy  day  this  in  the  annals  of 
our  history  for  on  this  day  we  have  left — we  trust 
for  ever — the  City  of  Detroit  &  the  shores  of 
Michigan — Hateful  disgusting  country  how  wast 
thou  misrepresented  when  it  was  told  to  me  that 
thy  soil  was  fruitful,  thy  climate  healthy,  thy  in- 
habitants intelligent  &  hospitable.  We  have  re- 
sided within  the  circuit  of  thy  capitol  for  7 
months — came  with  favourable  impressions,  with 
numerous  letters  of  introduction  &  with  every 
disposition  to  make  the  best  of  every  thing.  What 
has  been  the  result  ?  Out  of  8  letters  of  introduc- 
tion only  one  has  drawn  any  notice — All  with 
whom  we  have  become  acquainted  we  have  found 
selfish  inhospitable  &  with  no  one  idea  save  money 
— Thy  soil  is  unproductive  even  of  the  neces- 
saries of  life — thy  climate  is  most  unhealthy.  De- 
voted to  speculation  &  gambling  are  all  thy  in- 
habitants &  there  exists  not  such  thing  as  a  circu- 
lating medium  within  thy  bounds  even  for  the 
common  purposes  of  life — A  parcel  of  rags — 
justly  termed  "Wild  Cat"  &  "Red  Dog"— r[a]gs 
issued  by  bankrupts  &  gamblers  to  impose  on  the 
new — are  all  the  circulating  medium  existing  &  it 
need  hardly  be  said  do  not  circulate  for  none  will 
trust  them — Thy  whole  character  can  only  justly 
be  summed  up  by  saying  that  physically,  morally 
&  intellectually  Detroit  is  the  meanest  &  the  vilest 
spot  upon  creation's  surface. 

One  characteristic  of  Detroit  should  have  been 
noticed  before — its  mud.    It  is  the  common  topic 


"This  entry  in  Smith's  handwriting. 

37 


of  conversation  &  exceeds  credibility — After  a 
little  rain  the  cart  wheels  sink  literally  up  to  the 
axle-tree  in  the  filth — No  single  street  in  the  town 
is  paved  or  lighted — This  of  course  adds  to  the 
other  numerous  advantages  of  which  the  city  has 
to  boast. 

As  an  illustration  of  the  excessive  low  grade 
of  morality  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  place  it  may 
be  mentioned  that  one  who  had  professed  to  be 
a  zealous  advocate  of  Phren[olog]y  &  to  have 
exerted  himself  at  my  lectures  &  for  whom  I  had 
done  several  drawings  upon  his  very  urgent  & 
continued  teasing  became  vexed  that  I  would  not 
(being  busy  &  disinclined)  draw  him  an  addi- 
tional head  of  Socrates.  He  straightway  went  to 
a  magistrate — made  oath  that  I  owed  him  $100 
&  took  out  a  summons.  It  need  not  be  said  that 
there  was  not  the  shadow  of  a  claim  or  pretence 
for  a  claim  for  one  farthing  against  me — He 
simply  thought  that  by  costs  he  would  frighten 
me  into  dr[aw]ing  Socrates.  I  surprised  him 
much  by  instantly  taking  a  man  to  whom  he  owed 
money  &  whom  I  knew  he  wanted  to  cheat  &  get- 
ting him  in  presence  of  the  other  to  demand 
numerous  [?]  [Jacobs?]  became  himself  alarmed 
&  knowing  he  had  no  cause  offered  to  drop  suit  & 
pay  costs  if  I  wo'd  give  him  a  head  of  Socrates ! ! 
Here  is  modern  Philosophy!  This  is  however  a 
fair  specimen  of  the  character  of  the  people. 

I  shall13  only  add  as  my  testimony  to  the  truth 
of  the  above  that  I  am  right  thankful  to  be  at  this 
moment  breathing  the  air  at  Buffalo  on  our  re- 
turn to  the  land  of  civilization.  We  arrived  here 
this  Morn  [in]  g  (April  25th)  after  a  most  tempes- 
tuous tossing  upon  Lake  Erie    Our  Boat  was  the 


13Mrs.  Smith  wrote  this  paragraph.  Her  husband  continues 
in  the  next  entry. 

38 


most  comfortable  one  we  have  ever  been  in  &  has 
the  reputation  of  being  the  swiftest  on  the  Lake 
but  instead  of  a  24  hour  passage  we  were  obliged 
to  put  into  port  twice  so  that  50  hours  only  saw 
us  to  this  place.  On  this  our  2d  visit  to  this  place 
we  discover  that  it  is  much  more  of  a  place  than 
we  considered  it  last  Fall — it  is  much  superior  to 
Detroit  in  as  much  as  the  most  of  its  buildings 
are  of  brick  &  its  streets  paved.  We  also  dis- 
covered a  Unitarian  Church!  Only  think  we  are 
now  treading  ground  made  classic  by  the  events 
of  the  late  Canadian  War — Buffalo  has  been  the 
scene  of  much  excitement  but  it  is  once  again 
peaceable. 

26th  11  o'clock  A.  M.  Again  at  Niagara!  And 
what  a  day — Dark  &  foul  its  appearance  in  the 
morning;  in  the  afternoon,  as  we  arrived,  clear 
bright  &  promising,  &  then  again  just  as  we  were 
most  anxiously  desiring  that  it  should  be  fair  in 
order  to  complete  a  much  wished  sketch  clouding 
over  &  pouring  again  in  torrents  of  thick  rain. 

Niagara  seems  to  roar  on  this  occasion  with  a 
fury  &  a  thunder  double  that  with  which  she 
greeted  us  on  our  first  visit.  This  may  be  ascribed 
to  the  great  quantity  of  rain  which  has  recently 
fallen.  The  rapids  boiled  with  far  greater  turbu- 
lence &  seemed  to  seek  in  greater  haste  to  pour 
their  water  headlong  down  the  precipice  as  if 
to  avoid  the  volumes  urging  them  behind.  We 
felt  the  effect  of  the  cataract  more  distinctly  for 
the  house  distinctly  trembled  The  solid  earth 
shook  beneath  our  tread  as  we  walked  along  the 
banks.  We  determined  not  to  miss  seeing  the  Fall 
from  the  Canada  side  on  this  occasion  as  we  were 
compelled  to  do  last  year  by  the  weather  &  early 
in  the  afternoon  crossed  over  in  the  ferry  boat 
It  really  seems  frightful  to  watch  from  the  high 

39 


shore  the  little  boat  tossing  in  the  strong  current 
of  the  stream;  but  it  is  perfectly  secure.  We 
found  that  the  views  on  the  Canada  side  far  sur- 
pass those  on  the  American.  The  whole  of  the 
falls  is  seen  at  once  &  with  grand  effect.  There 
are  two  or  three  sublime  views  presented.  One, 
from  the  bottom  of  the  staircase  just  opposite  the 
Horse-shoe  fall  is  perhaps  the  most  imposing.  You 
are  here  just  under  the  fall  &  to  see  it  must  gaze 
upward — It  is  awfully — terrifically  grand — When 
we  saw  it  there  was  just  passing  over  a  dark  thick 
black  cloud  of  extremely  heavy  &  leaden  aspect 
unbroken  undivided  by  a  sign  of  aught  but  gloom 
— The  effect  was  indescribable — The  waters — the 
immense  body  of  the  foaming  cataract  seemed 
to  be  poured  out  of  this  dark  cloud — for  nothing 
save  the  cataract  &  the  cloud  immediately  above  it 
could  be  seen — &  the  idea  of  infinity  seemed  here 
conveyed  more  distinctly  than  by  any  other  pos- 
sible conception. 

From  the  top  of  Christler's  Hotel,  which  is  on 
the  bank  immediately  below  the  lower  fall  on  the 
Canada  side  &  commanding  a  full  view  of  both 
falls,  the  most  extensive  &  command  [in]  g  view  of 
the  whole  falls  &  adjunct  is  obtained.  You  here 
see  the  falls  themselves — the  rapids — &  up  the 
river  beyond  Navy  Island.  We  had  determined 
upon  returning  from  "Table  rock"  in  order  to  se- 
cure a  sketch  of  this  view — which  we  visited  first 
on  crossing  the  river, — but  by  the  time  we  reached 
Table  rock  the  dark  cloud  already  mentioned 
poured  down  in  torrents  &  the  spray  &  mist  which 
ran  from  the  fall  after  the  storm  abated  entirely 
prevented  our  being  able  to  obtain  the  slightest 
glimpse  of  the  fall  from  the  situation  whence,  but 
an  hour  before,  we  had  beheld  so  significant  a 
scene.    The  view  from  Table  Rock  is  very  fine  In- 

40 


deed — commanding  the  Horseshoe  fall  immedi- 
ately &  the  second  fall  in  the  distance. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Niagara  we  visited  the 
site  of  the  battle  of  Lundy's  Lane  just  above 
Drummond  Ville.  Here  we  were  shewn  two  spots 
on  one  of  which  10,00  on  the  other  14,00  bodies 
were  buried  after  the  battle — Many  were  not  dead 
at  the  time. — Bones  were  scattered  about.  When 
I  asked  the  man  who  showed  us  the  spot  why  they 
burned  them — it  seeming  rather  an  unusual  mode 
of  disposing  of  them — he  answered  with  great 
simplicity  "Because  they  were  in  the  way." 

We  visited  next  morning  Schlosser  an  old 
French  fort  1  mile  above  falls  on  American  side 
&  near  which  it  was  that  the  pirate  Steam  Boat 
Caroline  was  cut  away  &  burnt  on  the  night  of 
[the  29th  of  December]14  of  this  [last]  year  by 
the  British.  Just  opposite  is  Navy  Island — of 
recent  note  in  the  Canada  "war."  Opposite  is  the 
Village  of  Chippewa. 

Of  the  fort  nothing  remains  but  the  intrench- 
ments  which  are  still  perfect  &  one  solitary  gate 
which  lies  in  a  ditch  unhinged  &  without  any  posts 
or  apparent  place  but  evidently  a  gate  belonging 
to  the  fort  from  its  military  appearance. 

After  breakfast  we  walked  down  the  river  be- 
low the  falls  about  4  miles  in  search  of  the  Whirl- 
pool We  searched  but  found  it  not.  We  saw  the 
river  narrow  &  turn  in  several  places  &  the  cur- 
rent very  strong  &  rapid  but  no  whirlpool.  We 
passed  the  sulpher  spring  which  tastes  very  dis- 
agreeable. In  returning  we  sketched  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  falls — the  finest  we  think  on  the 
American  side.  They  are  seen  to  great  effect  thus 
in  the  distance.    But  when  nearer  you  require  to 


"Blank  space  left  for  date.     The  Caroline  was  destroyed 
early  in  morning,  Dec.  30,  1837. 

41 


be  close  in  order  to  see  the  grandeur  of  the  scene. 
This  view  is  about  2]/o  miles  below  the  falls. 

On  the  afternoon  of  this  day  we  left  Niagara 
by  the  railway  for  Lockport — On  the  way  many 
fine  views  of  the  falls  are  afforded  to  us — the 
track  passing  for  a  considerable  distance  on  the 
very  edge  of  the  cliff  which  forms  the  bank  of  the 
River.  We  arrived  at  Lockport  in  two  hours — 
much  of  this  line  is  precipitous  &  certainly  dan- 
gerous there  being  many  sharp  bends  immediately 
over  precipices.. 

The  Locks  at  Lockport  we  noticed  before  but 
will  here  give  a  more  particular  account  of  them 
together  with  a  few  particulars  relating  to  the 
Erie  Canal  on  which  works  these  Locks  are  situ- 
ated 

Lockport  owes  its  existence  entirely  to  the  cir- 
cumstance of  the  Canal's  formation.  Several 
workman's  sheds  were  erected  here  during  the 
progress  of  the  work  &  round  them  has  gradually 
gathered  a  town — A  gentleman  informed  me  that 
when  he  arrived  here  in  June  1822  there  was  not 
a  vestige  of  any  human  habitation  or  any  prob- 
ability of  its  erection.  It  was  the  centre  of  a  vast 
unpenetrated  forest.  Now  the  place  numbers  a 
population  of  upwards  of  5000  souls. 

The  Erie  Canal  may  be  considered  as  the  monu- 
ment of  DeWitt  Clinton.  It  was  he  who  projected 
the  work  &  thro'  whose  efforts  alone  it  was 
effected.  He  had  few  supporters  in  the  measure 
His  own  friends  thought  it  a  wild  scheme  His 
enemies  called  it  "Clinton's  Ditch"  &  many  voted 
for  it  because  they  thought  it  would  prove  his 
ruin.  It  has  proved  a  source  of  immense  good  & 
wealth  to  the  nation  &  especially  to  N.  Y.  State. 
It  was  thro  his  great  exertions  &  his  appliance  to 

42 


the  looking  out  for  &  obtaining  supplies  that  the 
work  was  carried  thro. 

The  Erie  Canal  was  begun  in  1817  completed  in 
1825.  It  is  363  miles  in  length  extending  from 
Albany  to  Buffalo.  The  expense  of  the  work  was 
between  8  &  9  millions  of  dollars. 

All  the  expense  of  the  work  has  already  been 
cleared  off  by  the  revenue  arising  from  Tolls  & 
a  surplus  is  now  on  hand.  The  annual  revenue 
is  $2,000,000  of  which  about  $1,000,000  is  ex- 
pended in  repairs  &  $1,000,000  is  an  accumulating 
fund. 

It  is  now  contemplated  to  enlarge  this  Canal 
so  as  to  extend  its  usefulness.  On  the  17  March 
1838  an  act  passed  the  N.  Y.  Legislature  granting 
a  loan  of  $4,000,000  for  this  work.  It  is  calcu- 
lated that  the  enlargement  will  be  completed  in 
8  years  &  that  it  will  cost  about  20  millions  of 
dollars.  The  Canal  is  now  4  feet  deep  &  40  feet 
wide.  It  is  to  be  made  7  feet  deep  &  70  feet  wide. 
The  enlargement  commenced  before  the  act  passed 
— the  commissioners  being  able  to  do  this  out  of 
the  surplus  revenue  ($2,000,000)  in  hand.  It  will 
now  proceed  rapidly. 

The  Locks  at  Lockport  are  one  of  the  greatest 
on  the  Canal — they  consist  of  5  tiers  of  2  locks 
each  &  rise  like  steps  the  one  above  the  other. 
They  are  about  10  or  12  feet  wide  &  70  long — 
They  will  be  increased  in  length  to  120  feet  but 
in  breadth  not  more  than  one  foot.  The  present 
locks  cost  $250,000 ;  the  new  ones  will  cost  $500,- 
000.  The  aqueduct  at  Rochester  which  is  likewise 
to  be  renewed  will  cost  the  same  sum.  At  the 
town  end  of  the  locks  on  the  bastion  between  the 
two  locks  is  fixed  a  marble  tablet  with  this  inscrip- 
tion 


43 


ERIE  CANAL 
Let  Posterity  be  excited  to  perpetuate  our 

FREE  INSTITUTIONS 

&  to  make  still  greater  efforts  than  their 

ancestors  to  promote  PUBLIC  PROSPERITY  by 

the  recollection  that  these  works  of 

INTERNAL  IMPROVEMENT 

were  achieved  by  the 

Spirit  &  Perseverence 

of 
Republican  Freemen. 
[Alas  that  Republicanism  is  so  exhibited  in  the 
U.  S.  that  this  inscription  may  be  almost  quoted 
in  satire.] 15 

There  is  another  inscription  at  the  other  end 
of  the  Locks — but  I  was  unable  to  make  out  a 
word  of  it  from  the  circumstance  of  the  letters 
never  having  been  blackened  &  I  was  unable  to 
approach  within  a  considerable  distance  of  the 
tablet. 

From  Lockport  we  went  (Ap  28)  by  stage  to 
Batavia  &  thereon  by  Railroad  to  Rochester — 
Here  we  visited — which  we  had  omitted  on  pass- 
ing thro  before — the  Genesee  Falls.  They  are 
beautiful  in  themselves  but  after  Niagara  are 
nothing  &  are  spoiled  by  their  waters  being  used 
now  to  turn  mills  of  various  descriptions.  Thus 
is  nature  desecrated  in  her  most  lovely  aspects  in 
America  if  only  a  few  dollars  can  be  turned  by 
this  desecration. 

Leaving  Rochester  in  the  afternoon  of  Sunday 
the  29th  at  2  o'clock  we  had  a  most  miserable 
journey  by  stage  to  Canandaigua  a  distance  of 
only  25  miles  but  which  we  were  7J/2  hours  in 
performing. 

Monday  morning  (30th)  left  Canandaigua  for 


15The  brackets  appear  thus  in  the  manuscript. 

44 


Auburn  where  we  arrived  in  the  evening.  Road 
better.  Travelled  at  rate  of  6  miles  an  hour — 
Canandaigua,  Geneva  (16  miles  distant)  &  Au- 
burn are  all  very  pretty  places. 

On  the  morning  of  May  day — day  with  anxiety 
anticipated, — we  left  Auburn  for  Utica — for  the 
present  the  Haven  of  our  rest.  And  here  at  length 
we  have  again  arrived.  We  have  quitted  that 
odious  Detroit  to  which  ill  fate  led  us  owing 
merely  &  simply  to  the  misrepresentation  of  Har- 
riet Martineau — At  great  expense  we  have  tra- 
velled thither. — In  ill  health  &  unpleasantness 
(owing  merely  to  the  vileness  of  the  place)  we 
have  lived  there  Often  we  have  longed  again  to 
see  a  land  of  comparative  civilization  &  here  at 
Utica  we  have  at  length  arrived.  May  day  1838 
is  [hallowed]  for  this  cause — May  it  prove  an  era 
in  our  history — for  fain  would  we  pray  that  some- 
thing may  be  found  by  which  I  may  be  enabled 
here  to  fix  our  residence  during  our  stay  in  Amer- 
ica— It  is  a  pleasant  place  There  is  evidently  a 
more  friendly  disposition  here  than  elsewhere 
Heaven  be  propitious  to  these  our  prayers! 

Utica16  May  8th  This  is  the  6th  day  of  our  so- 
journ in  this  place  and  from  what  we  have  seen 
it  pleases  us  much  The  attention  of  some  of  its 
inhabitants  &  its  more  advanced  condition  in  the 
common  comforts  of  life  appear  in  fine  contrast 
with  the  wretched  city  we  have  left.  The  varied 
land  scape  which  surrounds  the  town,  forming  in 
some  points  of  view  a  perfect  panorama,  is  a  very 
agreeable  change  from  the  flat  lands  of  Detroit: 
and  from  the  richness  of  the  soil  and  prettyly 
broken  forest  land  we  anticipate  great  additional 
beauty  when  [spring]  appears  in  some  of  her 
verdan    robes — This   season   is   very   late — even 


18Mrs.  Smith's  handwriting  begins  here. 
45 


now  the  buds  are  scarcely  perceptible  on  many  of 
the  trees  and  the  very  few  flowers  that  are  to 
be  seen  &  those  only  in  gardens  look  nipped  & 
frightened  We  spent  an  agreeable  evening  last 
night  at  Mrs.  Kirkland's  Friendliness  and  Soci- 
ability presided  and  we  both  of  us  felt  it  was  an 
evening  in  which  we  had  improved.  It  was  quite 
English  in  its  ceremonies  &  interesting  conversa- 
tion flowed  naturally  throughout  the  time.  This 
is  the  first  time  we  have  found  it  so  nice  since  we 
landed — Several  ladies  have  called  upon  us  &  if 
it  were  not  that  the  horrid  spirit  of  Calvinism 
reigns  in  the  city  I  should  much  like  to  live  here. 
Last  night  we  heard  such  an  unfavourable  account 
of  the  southern  States  &  their  inhabitants,  that  a 
journey  there  is  not  a  very  desirable  pastime.  The 
tone  of  society  is  very  low  in  the  scale  of  morals 
&  the  comforts  of  civilized  life  difficult  to  attain. 
The  value  of  life  is  held  at  nothing  &  a  man  is 
shot  by  the  duelist  or  blow[n]  up  by  the  steamer 
without  any  compunction!  a  pleasant  state  of 
things  truly — Toulmin  gives  an  introductory  lec- 
ture upon  the  "Opinions  of  the  Ancients  concern- 
ing the  Nature  of  the  Soul,"  this  evening — he  has 
received  valuable  assistance  in  making  arrange- 
ments &c — from  Mr.  Whetmore  &  Mr.  Kirkland — 
both  of  whom  happen  to  be  leading  men  in  the 
place  the  result  of  course  remains  to  be  proved — 
The  Lectures  succeed  better  than  was  expected 
M[ay]  14th  Monday  On  Saturday  Mrs.  Whet- 
more called — a  most  friendly  woman — afternoon 
we  rambled  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  neighbouring 
hills — the  view  was  pretty  we  gathered  a  wild 
flower  &  enjoyed  our  ramble — 

Sunday  Morn  [in]  g  we  went  to  the  Reformed 
Dutch  Church  the  Pastor  gave  a  very  sensible  dis- 
course upon  the  evils  of  Revivals — one  having 

46 


lately  been  got  up  in  this  city — Afternoon .  we 
wrote  letters  home  &  read — but  at  night  a  Cat 
or  rather  Dogastrophe  occurred  Toulmin  &  myself 
had  been  asleep  about  an  hour  when  he  whis- 
pered "Martha  do  you  hear  that  strange  Noise"? 
our  door  had  been  left  open  to  make  the  room  more 
airy,  it  being  a  small  one.  We  listened  again  & 
the  noise  to  our  ears  sounded  like  the  breathing 
of  some  animal ;  forthwith  to  our  imaginations  up 
rose  in  fearful  strength,  all  the  tales  we  had  been 
told  of  vipers  &  other  horrid  creatures  having 
been  found  in  bed  rooms  &c — We  were  afraid  to 
tread  upon  the  ground  so  Toulmin  by  means  of  a 
chair  &  overturning  a  jug  of  water  which  stood 
in  his  way  made  his  escape — I  in  a  terrible  fright 
took  a  flying  leap  from  the  bed  to  the  passage  & 
in  my  way  contrived  to  bruise  my  foot  in  such 
a  way  that  a  lump  the  size  of  an  egg  instantan- 
eously rose  upon  it:  having  gained  our  sitting 
room  we  lighted  our  candle  &  our  fire  &  not  ven- 
turing to  return  &  look  for  our  enemy  till  Morn- 
[in]g  we  lay  for  the  remainder  of  the  night  on 
chairs. — Morning  came  at  last — but  no  intruder 
was  to  be  found  all  that  remained  to  recall  our 
fright  was  the  Jug  lying  in  a  100  pieces  the  chair 
in  the  middle  of  the  room  &  our  stockings  &  shoes 
soaking  in  the  spilled  water — 

The  only  clue  we  can  find  to  be  the  cause  of  such 
a  dire  calamity  is  a  report  of  a  dog  having  been 
known  to  be  in  the  house  sometimes — 

May  28th  Horribly  dull  grey  weather — rain, 
rain,  rain  now  for  a  week — it  is  well  the  inhabi- 
tants of  this  city  make  up  by  their  attentions  for 
the  gloominess  of  the  skies — The  people  are  in- 
deed very  kind  to  us — tonight  we  are  going  to 
Mr.  Mandeville's  the  Dutch  Reform  Clergyman 
whom  by  the  way  we  admire  more  out  of  his 

47 


pulpit  than  in  it — he  pronounces  the  word  nui- 
sance as  new-i-sance  &  he  is  quite  a  priest  in  man- 
ner— T's  Lectures  on  the  Ancients  are  finished — 
they  are  very  interesting  but  as  they  are  merely 
interesting  to  literary  tast[e]s  can  never  be  popu- 
lar— in  this  country — however  their  proceeds  will 
pay  our  expenses  in  this  place — It  is  very  satis- 
factory to  observe  the  respect  he  gains  amongst 
those  thinkers  who  do  happen  to  come — The  Mc- 
Call  family  I  like  very  much,  the  old  Lady  puts 
me  in  mind  somewhat  of  Mrs  Alexander  at  Wake- 
f[iel]d — Mrs.  Tracy  a  sister  of  Mrs.  Charles 
Kirkland  brought  me  in  a  nosegay — the  first  gar- 
den flowers  I  have  possessed  since  last  summer  at 
Birmingham 

June  7th  Oh  Utica!  were  your  skies  less  grey 
&  gloomy  a  residence  in  your  city  would  be  much 
more  agreeable,  but  successive  days  of  gloom 
above  &  wet  beneath  are  not  those  happy  influ- 
ences which  tend  to  make  the  heart  cheerful — 
However  I  must  say  one  thing  this  dismal  weather 
does  not  seem  to  affect  the  kindly  feelings  of  its 
inhabitants  several  of  whom  have  really  shown 
us  many  attentions  &  by  their  manner  show  that 
the  milk  of  human  kindness  flows  in  their  veins, 
as  proof  of  this,  three  bouquets  of  beautiful 
flowers  have  been  brought  to  me,  &  a  no  less 
agreeable  present  though  perhaps  not  quite  so 
elegant,  was  a  basket  containing  sundry — slices 
of  good  bread  &  butter!,  (a  rare  article  with  us 
now  a  days),  cakes  &  jelly!!!  These  good  Mr. 
McCall  thought  would  be  grateful  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  a  boarding  house — T's  Lectures  are  upon 
the  whole  attended  about  as  well  as  we  were  led 
to  expect  they  would  be — but  to  me  it  is  an  in- 
explicable thing — that  the  curiosity  of  the  people 
cannot  be  more  awakened  I  will  do  T.  the  justice 

48 


to  say  his  opening  &  gratis  lecture  to  Phrenology 
is  a  very  interesting  one  &  I  am  convinced  would 
set  me  on  the  figets  to  hear  the  course — aye  even 
to  the  curtailing  of  my  glove  &  ribbon  monies 
supposing  I  had  no  other  means  of  procuring  a 
ticket — but  no — bonnets  with  heads  within  them 
come  by  the  wholesale  the  first  night — but  no 
others — how  is  it?  We  do  again  begin  to  tire  of 
moving  about  &  now  look  forward  to  Boston  with 
hope  some  arrangement  may  be  made  for  us  to 
pitch  our  tent  there — As  for  myself — perhaps  the 
first  time  in  my  life  I  quite  long  to  have  a  house 
of  my  own — I  absolutely  detest  these  boarding 
houses  One  cannot  have  a  friend  to  tea  or  to  dine 
because  what  pleasure  or  comfort  would  it  afford 
them  to  exchange  a  good  wholesome  home  meal 
for  a  heap  of  messes  &  a  seat  amongst  a  parcel  of 
toutish  people!  Oh  money  &  judgement  to  make 
a  right  use  of  it — how  much  I  wish  you  were  ours 
— .  The  people  in  England  have  forgotten  us — 
no  letters  for  the  last — last — 6  weeks ! 

Sunday  June  10th  Surely  this  is  one  of  the 
hottest  days  we  are  to  have — Therm — F92 — in 
the  shade — I  can  do  little  else  than  sleep  for  if  I 
sit  long  in  one  position  even  with  an  interesting 
book — off  I  am  to  the  land  of  nod — As  for  Toul- 
min  he  is  in  a  state  of  dissolution,  merely  kept 
together  in  his  wonted  form  by  the  lose  draperies 
which  surround  him — What  will  become  of  us 
if  the  heat  is  to  be  greater  than  this — I  dare  not 
contemplate — we  shall  become  perfect  sublima- 
tions of  the  Genus  man — 

11th — This  Morn  [in]  g  is  a  trifle  cooler — the 
better  for  the  thunder  storm  of  last  night.  About 
7  in  the  evening — we  turned  out  to  cool  ourselves 
— &  watched  the  progress  of  the  storm  clouds  from 
the  West — the  heavens  presented  one  of  the  most 

49 


curious  appearances  I  ever  remember — one  half 
of  the  firmament  was  bright  &  clear  while  the 
other  frowned  sublime — a  very  dark  cloud  curi- 
ously taking  the  form  of  an  arch  spaned  the  zenith 
&  thus  formed  as  it  were  a  boundary — through 
this  Arc — the  skies  seemed  as  if  closely  reflecting 
a  tremendous  conflagration  beneath  them,  &  grow- 
ing more  lurid  as  they  approached  one  spot — this 
illumined  space  was  divided  into  two  parts  by  a 
dark  cloud,  a  partial  falling  shower  which  in- 
creased the  strange  appearance — The  thunder 
was  distant,  the  lightening  very  frequent  &  vivid 
— often  appearing  to  dart  up  from  the  ground — 
it  gained  upon  us  &  on  our  return  [we]  took 
shelter  in  Capt  Mervine's  who  was  standnig  at 
his  door — this  is  a  family  newly  converted  to 
the  True  faith — Phrenology — 

June  13th  1838  A  year  back  this  was  our  Wed- 
ding day ! !  How  quickly  has  this  period  passed — 
how  like  to  yesterday  that  memorable  day — This 
past  year  has  been  bright  &  sunny  &  tho'  perhaps 
for  the  moment  a  passing  cloud  may  have  hung 
upon  the  spirit !  it  has  only  been  transcient  &  has 
been  succeeded  by  moments  in  which  increased 
affection  or  respect  have  given  value  to  the  glooms 
— As  respects  our  worldly  prospects  if  not  much 
better  than  when  we  first  set  out  together,  they 
certainly  are  not  worse  so  that  upon  the  whole 
the  balance  between  good  &  bad  is  greatly  in 
favour  of  the  former — in  truth  we  have  very  very 
much  to  be  thankful  for — &  may  our  Heavenly 
Father  grant  that  the  future  may  have  nothing 
worse  in  store  for  us — 

July  4th  Thermometer17  at  95  degrees  of 
Fahrenheit — Blood  heat — in  the  shade  where  no 
sun  reaches  it  the  whole  day — This  is  glorious 


"Smith's  handwriting  in  this  entry  and  his  wife  in  next. 

50 


weather — Such  balmy  breezes  floating  thro'  the 
air — There  cannot  issue  from  the  oven  door  more 
grateful  zephyrs — An  only  effort  now  can  be — 
how  little  clothing  we  can  manage  to  keep  on  in 
order  to  present  decency.  I  have  to  lecture  to- 
morrow night — My  Lord !  how  shall  I  get  thro' ! ! 

This  day  is  the  anniversary  of  the  "Declaration 
of  Independence" — &  a  most  sensible  mode  of 
keeping  it  they  have  viz — firi[n]g  guns  all  day 
from  1  o'clock  in  the  morning  till  midnight — to 
the  no  small  discomfiture  of  all  sensible  people — 
Alas  for  commemoration  days — 

July  8th — It  is  early  in  the  day  but  the  heated 
state  of  the  atmosphere  promises  great  things  for 
Mid-day — Yesterday  we  visited  the  much  boasted 
Trenton  &  of  course  were  disappointed — This 
failure  in  our  pleasure  might  have  been  partly  our 
own  faults — for  certainly  ere  this  we  ought  to 
have  learnt  how  to  appreciate  American  admira- 
tion of  their  own  scenery  had  we  not  heard  so 
very  much — -we  must  have  been  pleased — are 
gratified  for  there  really  is  great  peculiarity  in 
the  scenery  tho'  to  my  feelings  the  magic  of  the 
place  would  be  caused  by  the  lights  &  shadows  of 
moonlight  &  a  more  copious  supply  of  water.  The 
river  is  the  West  Canada  Creek — which  in  its 
passage  through  a  long  narrow  defile  occasioned 
by  an  apparent  rent  in  a  bed  of  grey  limestone 
gives  a  rugged  &  irregularly  deep  channel  to  the 
waters — which  in  a  distance  of  5  miles  make  a 
descent  of  350  feet  occasionally  tumbling  over  sud- 
den breaks  in  the  rock  which  being  fantastically 
broken  &  water-worn  form  some  picturesque  falls 
— partly,  I  presume  from  the  heights  of  the  en- 
closing sides  which  are  covered  with  wood  & 
partly  from  the  great  depth  of  the  water  in  the 
fissure — in  some  parts  the  colour  of  the  water  is 

51 


UBRARt 

tmivERsmr  of  hlukob 


most  curious  &  beautiful — being  either  of  a 
golden  hue  or  of  a  rich  dark  brown — (like  melted 
bottle  glass) — The  rocks  are  grey  lime  stone — 
remarkably  stratifed  splitt  veiy  regularly  at 
about  2,  3,  &  4  inches  in  thickness  &  rich  in  fos- 
sils. Some  large  Trilobites  were  in  the  Hotel 
cabinet — While  I  was  making  a  sketch  of  the 
chief  of  the  falls  Toulmin  &  Mr.  Whetmore  plac- 
ing themselves  picturesquely  amused  themselves 
with  bathing  their  hands  in  the  tumbling  waters 
of  the  torrent. — Amongst  the  wild  flowers  which 
were  not  particularly  numerous  I  gathered  (a 
scarlet  columbine)  the  wild  rapsbery,  &  very 
beautiful  kind  of  fern,  but  alack !  I  could  not  get 
them  home  before  they  were  quite  withered — The 
distance  from  Utica  is  14  miles  through  a  richly 
wooded  &  varigated  country  so  the  drive  itself — 
excepting  the  roughness  of  the  roads  is  by  no 
means  unproductive  of  pleasure — a  comfortable 
hotel  affords  refreshments  for  which  you  pay  a 
tolerable  price  &  a  return  home  the  same  day 
about  uses  you  up. 

Today  is  Sunday — all  the  parsons  in  the  place 
insist  so  much  upon  Natural  depravity  &  Original 
Sin  that  it  takes  away  all  comfort  and  edification 
attendant  upon  going  to  public  worship — There- 
fore do  we  think  it  productive  of  more  improve- 
ment to  ourselves  to  stay  at  home  &  read  Mark 
&  inwardly  digest  such  portions  of  the  Almightys 
Works  &  revelations  as  fall  within  our  path — 

July  18th  Night — All  packed  up  &  ready  for 
departure  tomorrow  Morn  [in]  g — We  have  been 
in  this  place  21/2  months  &  have  met  with  contin- 
ued kindness  &  polite  attentions  from  many  of 
the  families  How  Different  are  the  feelings  with 
which  we  leave  our  soujourning  place  this  time — 

52 


From  Detroit  we  turned  with  disgust  hence  we 
go  with  the  sincere  hopes  of  sometimes  meeting 
those  acquaintances  we  have  formed  again — 

In  all  the  families  we  have  known  we  have  been 
gratified  by  the  expressions  of  regret  at  our  de- 
parture &  I  really  believe  there  was  some  sincerity 
notwithstanding  the  full  development  of  No  11 
so  universally  found  in  American  Heads — 

Vocabulary  of  American  Barbarisms  consist- 
ing of  perversions  of  language  of  slang  phrases 
in  common  use  &  of  mispronunciations 


Ambition 

word 

for 

energy 

Engine 

pronounced 

en-g?/ne 

advertisement 

prod 

advertisement 

Partizan 

prod 

pdrtizan 

Horizon 

prod 

horizon 

Interesting 

prod 

interesting 

Musquet 

prod 

musk-wet 

Lieutenant 

prod 

lew-tent 

Go-ahead 

slang  for 

actg  quickly 

Right  away 

slang  for 

directly 

Fix 

slang 

for  the  p 

erforming  of  an: 

I  guess 


act  or  arrangt  of  any  thing  in 
any  way 
slang  for  an  infinite  variety  of 
expressions  such  as  I  suppose, 
I  think,  I  hope,  &c 


Aboard — 

used  for 

any 

thing  being  r 

in  any 

vehicle 

European 

pronounced 

European 

Opponent 

prod 

opponent 

Reiterate 

prod 

reiterate 

Massacre 

prod 

massacres 

Harrass 

prod 

Harrass 

53 


S*» 


Clever 


Ugly 


Exquisite 

Nuisance 
Inquiry 


for  anything  ordinarily  good  but 
never  applied  to  intellectl 
power  thus  they  s  [a]  y  "clever 
man"  for  good  sort  of  fellow 
"clever  river"  for  one  of  good 
size. 

applied  to  moral  instead  of  phy- 
sical thus  ugly  man  means  one 
of  disliked  conduct. 

prod  (short  but  accted  "i") 
Ex-qm-site 

prod  New-y-sance 

prod  Inquiry 


54 


